Fault File
All models / All cars / City cars / Nissan Pixo

Nissan Pixo

All generations and engines together · 9,715 MOT tests in the 2025 data

Reliability verdict
DBy miles

Graded against its peers

Worse than most city cars per mile driven. Watch brakes and suspension. A used buy worth some caution. Check the MOT history for repeating brakes advisories before you go.

First-time failure at 50-60k miles
35.3%
Across 1,268 tests. The average for city cars is 30.1%.

What owners report

Reported

Owner folklore from forums and the motoring press, with how well each report stands up. Most of it never shows up in an MOT, which is why this section exists at all.

Engine mount rattles and failures

Emerging

Owners repeatedly report a clunk or rattle from the engine bay, worst on start-up or over speed bumps, caused by worn or split mounts. Some cars have needed mounts replaced more than once well within the first year, one Honest John review logged a third set at just 7,500 miles. A mount is not expensive on its own, expect roughly £80 to £150 per mount fitted, but the repeat failures are the annoying part.

Reported from new to 20k miles · sources: Honest John owner reviews, Carbuyer owner reviews

Clutch and release bearing wear

Emerging

A screeching or grinding noise when the clutch pedal is pressed points to a worn release bearing, and some owners describe slipping or judder appearing surprisingly early, one case was reported at under 4,000 miles and another owner said they had replaced the clutch twice. A full clutch kit with fitting typically runs £300 to £500. No manufacturer bulletin was found for this, it reads as a component that just does not last on this car.

Reported from under 10k miles · sources: Honest John owner reviews, JustAnswer, owner forum reports

Wiper and washer system faults

Emerging

A recurring complaint is wiper or washer hardware breaking, including the rear washer hose detaching or dripping water into the driver's footwell, and wiper stalks or blades failing outright. It is a nuisance rather than a safety-critical repair in most cases, parts are cheap, but it comes up often enough in owner reviews to be worth checking. It lines up with the model's generally weak showing on MOT visibility items.

Reported across all ages · sources: Honest John owner reviews, Carbuyer owner reviews

Front wheel bearing noise

Disputed

Some owners report a drone or hum from the front end that builds with road speed and turns out to be premature wheel bearing wear, in one case noticed after only around 1,000 miles. Others put many more miles on without it happening, so it is not a given on every car. A bearing replacement is roughly £150 to £250 per side including labour.

Reported from 1k miles upward · sources: Carbuyer owner reviews, Honest John owner reviews

Electrical niggles in cold or wet weather

Emerging

Owners describe electrics playing up in snow or damp conditions, power windows losing power or working erratically, and a noisy but still functioning ABS pump. These tend to be intermittent switch or connector faults rather than one single failure, so cost varies a lot, anywhere from a £20 switch to a longer diagnostic bill if it is a wiring or ECU gremlin.

Reported in cold/wet conditions · sources: Carbuyer owner reviews

Corroded brake pipes and lines

Partly in the MOT data

Owners describe a spongy pedal or a brake warning light that traces back to corroded rear brake pipes rather than worn pads, more common on cars that have done winters on salted roads. The measured MOT data backs this up strongly: the Pixo fails on brakes far more than the class average, and damaged or corroded brake pipe is the single largest specific reason logged. This is age and road-salt corrosion, not a manufacturer defect, and there is no recall for it. Replacing a pipe or line typically costs £150 to £300 depending on how much has to come apart.

Rises sharply after 100k miles · sources: MOT test data (motsearch.co.uk), Carbuyer owner reviews

What to check on this car

Ranked from this model’s own MOT record, then from what owners report.

Saveable checklist

From this model’s MOT record

The physical checks its own defect data says are worth your time, most telling first.

Brake pipes underneathRuns high on this model Follow the metal brake lines with a torch where they run along the sills and over the rear axle. White crust or flaking metal means they are corroding, and the online MOT history usually shows the same advisory creeping up for years before the fail.Recorded on 40.3% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 6.2%
Bushes and ball jointsRuns high on this model Drive slowly over broken tarmac with the windows down and listen for clonks from either end. Back at the car, have someone rock the steering wheel while you rest a hand on each front wheel; play you can feel through the tyre is a worn joint.Recorded on 25.2% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 9.0%
Coil springsRuns high on this model Look through the wheel spokes at the bottom coil of each spring; when springs snap it is usually there, and the break is visible. Step back and check the car sits level too. A dropped corner is often a broken spring.Recorded on 21.3% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 5.0%
Rubber boots and gaitersRuns high on this model On full steering lock, look in behind each front wheel at the concertina rubber boots on the driveshafts and steering rack. Splits, or grease flung around the arch, mean dirt is getting into a joint that costs far more than the boot protecting it.Recorded on 8.6% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 1.5%
Underneath, with a torchRuns high on this model Get down and look at the sills, the subframes and the rear suspension mounting points. Flaking scale and bubbling matter; light surface rust does not. On older cars this is the one check that finds the fault that scraps them.Recorded on 8.4% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 3.1%
Lights and horn walkroundRuns high on this model With a helper, run every light: dipped, main beam, indicators, brake lights including the high-level one, reverse, fog, and the horn. On newer cars a dead LED section can mean replacing the whole lamp unit rather than a bulb.Recorded on 7.2% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 3.3%
Headlamp lensesRuns high on this model Check for condensation inside the headlamps and for cloudy or yellowed lenses. Both attract MOT trouble, and moisture inside a sealed LED unit generally means a whole new lamp.Recorded on 5.7% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 1.3%

Worth doing on any used car

These judge the seller’s upkeep rather than the model, and they are where the haggling money is.

Tyres, all four Check the tread across the full width of each tyre, inner edge included, and look for cracking and mismatched brands. A set of decent tyres is £500 or more on most cars, which makes this the easiest money to take off a price. If the pressure warning light is on, budget for sensors too.Recorded on 21.5% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 20.9%
Pads and discs Look through the wheel spokes at the brake disc. A pronounced lip on its outer edge, or a rusty and scored face, means discs and pads are due all round, a few hundred pounds on most cars. A haggling point rather than a reason to walk away.Recorded on 9.0% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 11.4%
Windscreen and wipersRuns high on this model Scan the glass in daylight for chips, especially in the driver's line of sight where even a small one can fail the MOT. Run the washers and check the wipers clear without smearing.Recorded on 6.1% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 2.0%

Because of what owners report

Drawn from the reports above rather than the MOT data. These are the model-specific ones.

Start the engine cold and listen for a clunk or rattle from the engine bay, then again pulling away. A knock on start-up or under load points to worn engine mounts.
With the engine running, press the clutch pedal fully down and listen for a screech. A screech is a worn release bearing, and a slipping or juddering clutch on the test drive means it is already on its way out.
Operate every wiper and washer, including the rear one, and check the driver's footwell carpet for damp. A detached rear washer hose leaks straight onto the footwell and rots the carpet from underneath.
Take it up to motorway speed and listen for a drone or hum that gets louder as you go faster. That is classic wheel bearing wear, worse on the front.
Cycle all the electric windows and watch the dash for an ABS warning light. Slow or dead windows and a lit ABS light point to the electrical niggles owners report, especially after the car has sat in damp weather.
Get it up on a ramp or check underneath with a torch for rust or wet patches around the brake pipes. Corroded or weeping pipes are the number one reason this model fails its MOT on brakes, and the fix is not cheap once it is showing.
Read the full MOT history, not just pass or fail. The same brake or visibility advisory coming back year after year means it has never actually been fixed.

The MOT data

Measured

Computed from DVSA MOT results, all of Great Britain, 2025. Nothing here is opinion.

How this model wears

Nissan PixoClass average, all tracked models

What testers flag

Share of tests where each item was recorded. The dark tick is the class average across all tracked models; bars are scaled within each group.

Faults with the car itself

The rows that judge the model rather than its keeper. 9,715 tests in this band.

Brake pipe damaged or excessively corroded
Advisory
40.3%class 6.2%
A suspension pin, bush or joint excessively worn
Advisory
25.2%class 9.0%
A spring or spring component fractured or seriously weakened
Advisory
21.3%class 5.0%
A suspension component excessively damaged or corroded
Advisory
12.6%class 7.4%
A transmission shaft constant velocity joint boot severely deteriorated
Minor
8.6%class 1.5%
Stop lamp missing, inoperative or in the case of a multiple light source more than 1/2 not functioning
Fail
6.3%class 1.8%
Brake pipe damaged or excessively corroded
Fail
6.0%class 0.8%
A lamp missing, inoperative or in the case of a multiple light source more than 1/2 not functioning
Fail
5.9%class 3.5%
Headlamp reflector or lens slightly defective
Minor
5.7%class 1.3%
Product on the lens or light source which obviously reduces light intensity or changes emitted colour to other than whit
Advisory
5.7%class 0.9%

Wear, upkeep and luck

Tyres, pads and stone chips say more about how the car was driven and maintained than about how it was built.

Tyre tread depth not in accordance with the requirements
Advisory
24.0%class 23.4%
A tyre seriously damaged
Advisory
19.5%class 9.7%
Brake disc or drum excessively weakened, insecure or fractured
Advisory
9.0%class 11.4%
A rear registration plate lamp or light source missing or inoperative in the case of multiple lamps or light sources
Minor
7.2%class 3.3%
Wiper blade missing or obviously not clearing the windscreen
Fail
6.1%class 2.0%
A brake lining or pad worn below 1.5mm
Advisory
5.1%class 7.3%
Number plate inscription missing or illegible
Advisory
4.9%class 2.3%
The aim of a headlamp is not within limits laid down in the requirements
Fail
3.1%class 1.4%

Others in its class

Same segment (City cars), best MOT record first. Compare before you shortlist.