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What to check: Mitsubishi Shogun

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Ranked across all years of the Mitsubishi Shogun, from its own MOT record and from what owners report. Tick it off at the car.

From this model's MOT record

The physical checks its own defect data says are worth your time, most telling first.

Brake pipes underneathRuns high on this modelFollow the metal brake lines with a torch where they run along the sills and over the rear axle. White crust or flaking metal means they are corroding, and the online MOT history usually shows the same advisory creeping up for years before the fail.Recorded on 13.7% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 1.9%

Bushes and ball jointsRuns high on this modelDrive slowly over broken tarmac with the windows down and listen for clonks from either end. Back at the car, have someone rock the steering wheel while you rest a hand on each front wheel; play you can feel through the tyre is a worn joint.Recorded on 4.3% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.2%

DampersRuns high on this modelLook for oil misting on the damper body behind each wheel, then push down hard on each corner of the car. It should settle in one bounce. A floaty or crashy ride on the test drive is the same fault felt from the driver's seat.Recorded on 3.6% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 2.3%

Coil springsRuns high on this modelLook through the wheel spokes at the bottom coil of each spring; when springs snap it is usually there, and the break is visible. Step back and check the car sits level too. A dropped corner is often a broken spring.Recorded on 2.1% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 1.3%

Steering playRuns high on this modelWith the engine running and the car parked, waggle the wheel lightly about the straight-ahead. The wheels should respond almost at once. A dead zone before anything happens means wear in the rack or the track rod ends.Recorded on 2.1% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 1.1%

A binding brakeRuns high on this modelAfter the test drive, hold the back of your hand near each wheel hub. One wheel running much hotter than the rest is a sticking caliper. A car that slows itself down when you lift off on a flat road is saying the same thing.Recorded on 1.3% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.7%

LeaksLook at the ground where the car usually stands, then glance under the engine after your test drive. Fresh drips of oil or coolant are the cheapest warning you will ever get about a car.Recorded on 1.4% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 2.0%

Worth doing on any used car

These judge the seller's upkeep rather than the model.

Tyres, all fourCheck the tread across the full width of each tyre, inner edge included, and look for cracking and mismatched brands. A set of decent tyres is £500 or more on most cars, which makes this the easiest money to take off a price. If the pressure warning light is on, budget for sensors too.Recorded on 20.7% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 20.1%

Pads and discsRuns high on this modelLook through the wheel spokes at the brake disc. A pronounced lip on its outer edge, or a rusty and scored face, means discs and pads are due all round, a few hundred pounds on most cars. A haggling point rather than a reason to walk away.Recorded on 15.9% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 8.7%

Windscreen and wipersRuns high on this modelScan the glass in daylight for chips, especially in the driver's line of sight where even a small one can fail the MOT. Run the washers and check the wipers clear without smearing.Recorded on 3.1% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 2.0%

Because of what owners report

Drawn from the owner reports rather than the MOT data. These are the model-specific ones.

Start the 3.2 DI-D stone cold and listen before the oil pressure builds.A rattle that fades after a second or two points to timing chain tensioner or guide wear.

Take it on a proper drive including a motorway stretch, then restart it warm.Rough running, black smoke or limp mode on the restart suggests a clogging EGR valve.

On an automatic, select D and R several times from cold and again once warm.Hesitation, a delay before it takes up drive, or getting stuck in one gear means gearbox wear, not a one-off.

Get underneath and check the sills, chassis rails near body mounts, and the fuel filler pipe.Flaky rust or a perished filler pipe means expensive welding is coming, if it isn't needed already.

Pull the full MOT history, not just the pass/fail line.A repeated corrosion advisory near the same mounting point is a structural problem getting worse, not a one-off.

Check pad and disc thickness and how the handbrake holds on a slope.Heavier wear than you'd expect for the mileage is normal for this model, but uneven wear side to side points to a sticking caliper.

Cycle every electrical extra: central locking, windows, all warning lights with ignition on.Anything intermittent now will still be intermittent after you've bought it.

Full Mitsubishi Shogun reliability report