Fault File
All models / All cars / Family & large SUVs / Honda CR-V

Honda CR-V

All generations and engines together · 133,923 MOT tests in the 2025 data · typical mileage at age 7: 60k

Reliability verdict
BBy age
CBy miles

Graded against its peers

Better than most SUVs for its age, though about average per mile driven. Watch steering and suspension. A solid used buy, provided its MOT history has no repeating steering advisories.

First-time failure at age 7
13.4%
Across 10,436 tests. The average for SUVs is 16.4%.
First-time failure at 50-60k miles
13.3%
Across 12,597 tests. The average for SUVs is 15.1%.
Rank in its class
5 of 38
1 = lowest failure rate among the 38 SUVs we can rank.
Typical mileage at age 7
60k miles
How far the average car has gone by seven years old. Low-mileage models can look better by age than they are.

Generation

Split by first-registration year. Cars registered in a changeover year can belong to either generation.

What owners report

Reported

Owner folklore from forums and the motoring press, with how well each report stands up. Most of it never shows up in an MOT, which is why this section exists at all.

Steering pull, wander and track-rod wear

Partly in the MOT data

Owners across all three UK generations report the CR-V pulling to one side or wandering on cambered roads, usually traced to worn track rod ends. Early 2.2 i-CTDi cars had an incorrect spring causing a left-hand pull, which Honda fixed on the production line by June 2007, and later cars on 18-inch wheels have been reported as slow to self-centre after a turn. It tends to show up gradually from around 5-6 years old rather than as a sudden failure. The measured MOT data backs up the general shape of this: steering is the standout fault category for large SUVs as a class, though the data can't say which specific part is wearing.

Reported from ~5-6 years old, track rod ends ~£150-£350 to fix · sources: Honest John CR-V 2007-2012 and 2012-2018 car-by-car pages

Air conditioning compressor failure (2007-2012 cars)

Confirmed pattern

Third-generation CR-Vs (2007-2012) have a recurring history of air con compressor failure, sometimes taking the electromagnetic clutch and wiring with it. Repairs have been quoted at £1,700-£2,100 or more. Honda extended the compressor warranty from three years to six years in 2012, which is about as close to an official admission of a manufacturing fault as this kind of issue gets.

Mk3 (2007-2012) cars · £1,700-£2,100+ to fix · source: Honest John CR-V 2007-2012 car-by-car page

Early clutch and dual-mass flywheel wear

Emerging

Manual CR-Vs, on both petrol and the 2.2/1.6 diesels, have a string of reports of clutch slip or a squeaking clutch pedal turning up far earlier than the 80,000-120,000 miles you'd normally expect, some as low as 10,000-40,000 miles. A worn dual-mass flywheel often shows up alongside it, and cold-start judder has been put down to moisture getting onto the plates. Clutch and DMF replacement together typically runs into four figures, and Honda hasn't acknowledged it as a design issue.

Reported 10k-40k miles on manual cars · sources: Honest John CR-V 2007-2012 and 2012-2018 car-by-car pages

DPF blocking and failed regeneration

EmergingDiesel only

Diesel CR-Vs (2.2 i-CTDi, 2.2 i-DTEC and 1.6 i-DTEC) that spend most of their life on short runs can struggle to complete a full DPF regeneration, leading to warning lights and a limp-home mode. Typical filter replacement has been quoted at around £800, with one case reaching £3,000 at just over 100,000 miles. Doesn't apply to petrol or hybrid cars.

Diesel only, worse on short-journey cars · £800-£3,000 · sources: Honest John CR-V 2007-2012 and 2012-2018 car-by-car pages

Hybrid gearbox rattle from cold

DisputedHybrid only

A handful of 2019 CR-V Hybrid owners reported a distinct rattle from the nearside front at idle or in Drive when the car is cold, appearing from as little as 1,000 miles. At least one owner was quoted around £25,000 for a full gearbox replacement, and dealers reportedly resisted swapping the unit under warranty because of how labour-intensive the job is. It's a small number of reports rather than a widespread pattern, but the bill if it does hit you is severe.

Hybrid only, from ~1,000 miles · dealer quote reported ~£25,000 · source: Honest John CR-V 2018-2023 car-by-car page

Battery drain and electrical gremlins

Disputed

Flat batteries on the CR-V have been blamed on half a dozen different culprits over the years: a faulty starter switch, the oil pressure sensor, the ECM, the Bluetooth (HFT) control unit, and the body control module (MICU) among them. Owners and independent garages don't agree on a single root cause, which makes it a hard fault to diagnose without swapping parts on a hunch. Fixes range from a simple sensor swap to an HFT unit costing over £1,100.

Reported across generations, cause disputed · roughly £100-£1,100+ depending on the part · sources: Honest John CR-V 2007-2012 and 2012-2018 car-by-car pages

What to check on this car

Ranked from this model’s own MOT record, then from what owners report.

Saveable checklist

From this model’s MOT record

The physical checks its own defect data says are worth your time, most telling first.

Rubber boots and gaitersRuns high on this model On full steering lock, look in behind each front wheel at the concertina rubber boots on the driveshafts and steering rack. Splits, or grease flung around the arch, mean dirt is getting into a joint that costs far more than the boot protecting it.Recorded on 4.3% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.7%
Lights and horn walkroundRuns high on this model With a helper, run every light: dipped, main beam, indicators, brake lights including the high-level one, reverse, fog, and the horn. On newer cars a dead LED section can mean replacing the whole lamp unit rather than a bulb.Recorded on 2.9% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.1%
Bushes and ball jointsRuns high on this model Drive slowly over broken tarmac with the windows down and listen for clonks from either end. Back at the car, have someone rock the steering wheel while you rest a hand on each front wheel; play you can feel through the tyre is a worn joint.Recorded on 1.5% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.8%
Underneath, with a torchRuns high on this model Get down and look at the sills, the subframes and the rear suspension mounting points. Flaking scale and bubbling matter; light surface rust does not. On older cars this is the one check that finds the fault that scraps them.Recorded on 1.4% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.7%
Leaks Look at the ground where the car usually stands, then glance under the engine after your test drive. Fresh drips of oil or coolant are the cheapest warning you will ever get about a car.Recorded on 1.5% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 2.0%
A binding brake After the test drive, hold the back of your hand near each wheel hub. One wheel running much hotter than the rest is a sticking caliper. A car that slows itself down when you lift off on a flat road is saying the same thing.Recorded on 0.8% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.7%

Worth doing on any used car

These judge the seller’s upkeep rather than the model, and they are where the haggling money is.

Tyres, all four Check the tread across the full width of each tyre, inner edge included, and look for cracking and mismatched brands. A set of decent tyres is £500 or more on most cars, which makes this the easiest money to take off a price. If the pressure warning light is on, budget for sensors too.Recorded on 22.6% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 20.1%
Pads and discs Look through the wheel spokes at the brake disc. A pronounced lip on its outer edge, or a rusty and scored face, means discs and pads are due all round, a few hundred pounds on most cars. A haggling point rather than a reason to walk away.Recorded on 10.9% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 8.7%
Windscreen and wipers Scan the glass in daylight for chips, especially in the driver's line of sight where even a small one can fail the MOT. Run the washers and check the wipers clear without smearing.Recorded on 2.1% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 1.7%

Because of what owners report

Drawn from the reports above rather than the MOT data. These are the model-specific ones.

Let go of the wheel briefly on a flat, straight road at 40-50mph. Pulling to one side or wandering on camber is the CR-V's recurring steering complaint, not just a car that needs a routine tracking adjustment.
On a 2007-2012 car, run the air con on max cold for ten minutes. Weak or absent cooling points to the well-known compressor failure, a £1,700+ repair Honda themselves acknowledged with an extended warranty.
Dip the clutch on a manual from cold and feel for the biting point, then check for slip pulling away on a hill under load. A high, vague biting point or slip under 40,000 miles suggests early clutch or dual-mass-flywheel wear.
On a diesel, check the service history for a pattern of longer runs, not just short local trips. Mostly short journeys plus any DPF warning light history means expensive regeneration problems or a filter replacement, up to £3,000 in bad cases, are more likely.
On a hybrid, listen for a rattle from the nearside front at idle or just after selecting Drive when the car is cold. This has been linked to a costly hybrid gearbox fault that dealers have been reluctant to fix under warranty.
Ask when the battery was last replaced and check for a trickle charger or jump pack left in the boot. Recurring flat batteries point to one of the CR-V's various electrical drain issues, which can be fiddly and expensive to pin down.
Check the MOT history for repeated advisories on track rod ends, wheel alignment or steering components. The same steering advisory coming back year after year backs up the folklore that this is a genuine weak point, not a one-off.

The MOT data

Measured

Computed from DVSA MOT results, all of Great Britain, 2025. Nothing here is opinion.

How this model wears

Honda CR-VClass average, all tracked models

What testers flag

Share of tests where each item was recorded. The dark tick is the class average across all tracked models; bars are scaled within each group.

Faults with the car itself

The rows that judge the model rather than its keeper. 45,404 tests in this band.

Steering rack gaiter or ball joint dust cover damaged or deteriorated
Minor
4.3%class 0.7%
Stop lamp missing, inoperative or in the case of a multiple light source more than 1/2 not functioning
Advisory
2.9%class 0.1%
A suspension joint dust cover severely deteriorated
Minor
2.4%class 0.6%
A suspension pin, bush or joint excessively worn
Advisory
1.5%class 0.8%
Fluid leaking excessively and likely to harm the environment or to pose a safety risk to other road users
Advisory
1.5%class 2.0%
A suspension component excessively damaged or corroded
Advisory
1.4%class 0.7%
Brake pedal anti-slip provision missing, loose or worn smooth
Advisory
1.3%class 0.1%
Significant brake effort recorded with no brake applied indicating a binding brake
Advisory
0.8%class 0.7%
Excessive fluctuation in brake effort through each wheel revolution.
Advisory
0.7%class 0.6%

Wear, upkeep and luck

Tyres, pads and stone chips say more about how the car was driven and maintained than about how it was built.

Tyre tread depth not in accordance with the requirements
Advisory
25.3%class 22.9%
A tyre seriously damaged
Advisory
12.4%class 12.7%
A brake lining or pad worn below 1.5mm
Advisory
10.9%class 8.7%
Brake disc or drum excessively weakened, insecure or fractured
Advisory
5.3%class 10.1%
Brake disc or drum significantly and obviously worn
Advisory
5.0%class 3.4%
Child Seat fitted not allowing full inspection of adult belt
Advisory
3.1%class 2.2%
A rear registration plate lamp or light source missing or inoperative in the case of multiple lamps or light sources
Minor
2.4%class 1.2%
Nail in tyre
Advisory
2.3%class 1.6%

Others in its class

Same segment (Family & large SUVs), best MOT record first. Compare before you shortlist.

How it compares

Head to head with the other popular cars in its class on reliability and common faults.