Fault File
All models / All cars / City cars / Ford Ka

Ford Ka

All generations and engines together · 147,947 MOT tests in the 2025 data · typical mileage at age 7: 40k

Reliability verdict
CBy age
DBy miles

Graded against its peers

Middling for its age among city cars, though worse than most per mile driven. Watch suspension and corrosion. A fair used buy, provided its MOT history has no repeating suspension advisories.

First-time failure at age 7
19.6%
Across 11,953 tests. The average for city cars is 20.2%.
First-time failure at 50-60k miles
33.6%
Across 19,538 tests. The average for city cars is 30.1%.
Rank in its class
12 of 18
1 = lowest failure rate among the 18 city cars we can rank.
Typical mileage at age 7
40k miles
How far the average car has gone by seven years old. Low-mileage models can look better by age than they are.

Generation

Split by first-registration year. Cars registered in a changeover year can belong to either generation.

What owners report

Reported

Owner folklore from forums and the motoring press, with how well each report stands up. Most of it never shows up in an MOT, which is why this section exists at all.

Corroded front suspension top mounts

Partly in the MOT data

On the 2008-2016 Ka (Mk2), the top mounts for the front struts corrode and wear, giving a harsher ride and a squeak or knock over bumps and on full steering lock. This lines up with the measured MOT data, where suspension is the standout fault for this model. Typical repair for mounts and associated parts runs £150-450.

From around 60-80k miles or 6+ years old · sources: WhoCanFixMyCar, Blackcircles

Rough idle and hesitant hill starts (EU6 cars)

Confirmed pattern

Later Mk2 cars built to EU6 emissions (from around 2013) can idle roughly, stumble on light throttle, or need extra revs to pull away on a hill without stalling. Ford and Fiat dealers (the Mk2 was Fiat-built) have addressed it with an ECU software update, so it counts as manufacturer-acknowledged rather than just owner chatter. No cost to the buyer if done under a recall-style campaign, but check it has actually been applied.

Reported on 2013-2016 EU6 cars · sources: Honest John

C17 gearbox bearing wear and clutch hydraulic leaks

Emerging

A grinding or whining noise from the gearbox, sometimes with a slipping or heavy clutch, points to input bearing wear on the Mk2's C17 manual box, occasionally with oil weeping onto the clutch itself. Separately, the clutch master or slave cylinder can leak and give a spongy or sinking pedal. Repairs run roughly £380 for the bearing and £600-700 for a full clutch job if the leak has already contaminated it.

Reported from 50k miles up · sources: WhoCanFixMyCar, Blackcircles

Emulsified oil and worn cam followers (pre-2002 1.3)

Emerging1.3 pre-2002 Endura-E only

The early pushrod 1.3 fitted before 2002 is known for emulsifying oil that blocks oil passages, and for cam followers wearing because they were not properly case-hardened, leaving the engine noisy and tappety. Left unchecked it can starve the rocker gear of oil. Cam follower and oil system work is a few hundred pounds; ignoring it risks bigger engine damage.

Shown because it's specific to the early 1.3 engine · sources: classics.honestjohn.co.uk, Blackcircles

Structural rust in sills, arches and rear spring seats

Emerging

Rust is the biggest killer on older Kas, starting hidden under the side skirts and rear wheel arches and rotting from the inside out, with sills and rear spring seats also affected. It's worst on the Mk1 (1996-2008) but shows up on higher-mileage Mk2s too. Once it reaches structural points like sills or spring seats, repair can run into four figures or write the car off; there's no manufacturer fix, it's down to the age and salt exposure of the individual car.

Common from 8-10 years old · sources: WhoCanFixMyCar, classics.honestjohn.co.uk

Diesel DPF problems (Ka+)

DisputedDiesel only (Ka+)

On the 2016-2019 Ka+ diesel, the DPF can block up if the car is mostly used for short trips, bringing on warning lights, a rough idle and reduced power until it's forced to regenerate on a longer run. A forced dealer regen or, in bad cases, a replacement filter, are the usual fixes and can cost several hundred pounds.

Reported on Ka+ diesel · sources: Blackcircles

What to check on this car

Ranked from this model’s own MOT record, then from what owners report.

Saveable checklist

From this model’s MOT record

The physical checks its own defect data says are worth your time, most telling first.

DampersRuns high on this model Look for oil misting on the damper body behind each wheel, then push down hard on each corner of the car. It should settle in one bounce. A floaty or crashy ride on the test drive is the same fault felt from the driver's seat.Recorded on 7.0% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 2.3%
Coil springsRuns high on this model Look through the wheel spokes at the bottom coil of each spring; when springs snap it is usually there, and the break is visible. Step back and check the car sits level too. A dropped corner is often a broken spring.Recorded on 6.6% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 1.3%
Bushes and ball joints Drive slowly over broken tarmac with the windows down and listen for clonks from either end. Back at the car, have someone rock the steering wheel while you rest a hand on each front wheel; play you can feel through the tyre is a worn joint.Recorded on 6.0% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 5.9%
ExhaustRuns high on this model Listen along the exhaust at cold idle for blowing or chuffing, and give the tailpipe a push to check nothing hangs loose. Small blows only get louder.Recorded on 3.1% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.6%
Steering playRuns high on this model With the engine running and the car parked, waggle the wheel lightly about the straight-ahead. The wheels should respond almost at once. A dead zone before anything happens means wear in the rack or the track rod ends.Recorded on 2.5% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.4%
Underneath, with a torchRuns high on this model Get down and look at the sills, the subframes and the rear suspension mounting points. Flaking scale and bubbling matter; light surface rust does not. On older cars this is the one check that finds the fault that scraps them.Recorded on 1.8% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.6%
Rubber boots and gaitersRuns high on this model On full steering lock, look in behind each front wheel at the concertina rubber boots on the driveshafts and steering rack. Splits, or grease flung around the arch, mean dirt is getting into a joint that costs far more than the boot protecting it.Recorded on 1.8% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.6%

Worth doing on any used car

These judge the seller’s upkeep rather than the model, and they are where the haggling money is.

Tyres, all four Check the tread across the full width of each tyre, inner edge included, and look for cracking and mismatched brands. A set of decent tyres is £500 or more on most cars, which makes this the easiest money to take off a price. If the pressure warning light is on, budget for sensors too.Recorded on 21.2% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 20.1%
Pads and discs Look through the wheel spokes at the brake disc. A pronounced lip on its outer edge, or a rusty and scored face, means discs and pads are due all round, a few hundred pounds on most cars. A haggling point rather than a reason to walk away.Recorded on 8.9% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 8.7%
Windscreen and wipers Scan the glass in daylight for chips, especially in the driver's line of sight where even a small one can fail the MOT. Run the washers and check the wipers clear without smearing.Recorded on 1.6% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 1.7%

Because of what owners report

Drawn from the reports above rather than the MOT data. These are the model-specific ones.

Turn the wheel lock to lock at a standstill and drive over a speed bump. Squeaking or knocking from the front points to worn or corroded top mounts.
Start the engine stone cold and try a gentle hill start without extra revs. Stalling or heavy hesitation is the known EU6 rough-idle fault.
Listen for a whine or grind through the gears and check under the bellhousing for oil weep. Points to gearbox bearing wear or a leaking clutch cylinder.
On a pre-2002 1.3, pull the dipstick and check under the oil filler cap. A mayonnaise-like residue means the oil has emulsified, a sign of cam follower or head trouble.
Lift the boot liner and check the sills, rear wheel arches and spring seats for bubbling or fresh underseal. Hides structural rust; fresh underseal in one spot only usually means a patch job, not a proper repair.
On a Ka+ diesel, check for a DPF warning light and ask when it last did a decent motorway run. Short-trip-only cars are the ones that end up needing a forced regen or new filter.
Pull the full MOT history, not just the pass/fail. Repeated suspension advisories year after year match the model's measured MOT weak spot.

The MOT data

Measured

Computed from DVSA MOT results, all of Great Britain, 2025. Nothing here is opinion.

How this model wears

Ford KaClass average, all tracked models

What testers flag

Share of tests where each item was recorded. The dark tick is the class average across all tracked models; bars are scaled within each group.

Faults with the car itself

The rows that judge the model rather than its keeper. 42,254 tests in this band.

A suspension pin, bush or joint excessively worn
Advisory
7.3%class 6.6%
A shock absorber damaged to the extent that it does not function or showing signs of severe leakage
Advisory
7.0%class 2.3%
A spring or spring component fractured or seriously weakened
Advisory
6.6%class 1.3%
Exhaust system leaking or insecure
Advisory
3.1%class 0.6%
A steering ball joint with excessive wear or free play
Advisory
2.5%class 0.4%
A spring or spring component fractured or seriously weakened
Fail
2.4%class 1.4%
A shock absorber damaged to the extent that it does not function or showing signs of severe leakage
Fail
1.9%class 0.4%
A suspension component excessively damaged or corroded
Advisory
1.8%class 0.6%
A suspension joint dust cover severely deteriorated
Minor
1.8%class 0.6%
A headlamp or light source missing, inoperative or more than ½ not functioning in the case of LED
Fail
1.8%class 0.8%

Wear, upkeep and luck

Tyres, pads and stone chips say more about how the car was driven and maintained than about how it was built.

Tyre tread depth not in accordance with the requirements
Advisory
23.8%class 22.9%
A tyre seriously damaged
Advisory
17.5%class 12.7%
A brake lining or pad worn below 1.5mm
Advisory
8.9%class 8.7%
Brake disc or drum excessively weakened, insecure or fractured
Advisory
6.4%class 10.1%
Brake disc or drum significantly and obviously worn
Advisory
2.3%class 3.4%
Tyre tread depth not in accordance with the requirements
Fail
2.2%class 2.3%
A brake lining or pad worn below 1.5mm
Fail
2.2%class 1.6%
Nail in tyre
Advisory
1.8%class 1.6%

Others in its class

Same segment (City cars), best MOT record first. Compare before you shortlist.

How it compares

Head to head with the other popular cars in its class on reliability and common faults.