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What to check: Toyota GT86

CBy age

BBy miles

Ranked across all years of the Toyota GT86, from its own MOT record and from what owners report. Tick it off at the car.

From this model's MOT record

The physical checks its own defect data says are worth your time, most telling first.

Rubber boots and gaitersRuns high on this modelOn full steering lock, look in behind each front wheel at the concertina rubber boots on the driveshafts and steering rack. Splits, or grease flung around the arch, mean dirt is getting into a joint that costs far more than the boot protecting it.Recorded on 3.3% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.6%

A binding brakeRuns high on this modelAfter the test drive, hold the back of your hand near each wheel hub. One wheel running much hotter than the rest is a sticking caliper. A car that slows itself down when you lift off on a flat road is saying the same thing.Recorded on 3.1% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.7%

Coil springsRuns high on this modelLook through the wheel spokes at the bottom coil of each spring; when springs snap it is usually there, and the break is visible. Step back and check the car sits level too. A dropped corner is often a broken spring.Recorded on 2.8% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 1.3%

Lights and horn walkroundRuns high on this modelWith a helper, run every light: dipped, main beam, indicators, brake lights including the high-level one, reverse, fog, and the horn. On newer cars a dead LED section can mean replacing the whole lamp unit rather than a bulb.Recorded on 2.7% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 1.2%

Cold start and smokeRuns high on this modelAsk the seller not to warm the car up before you arrive, then watch the tailpipe at start-up and again under hard acceleration. Any visible smoke is a negotiation at best. A diesel that has lived on short trips may also be carrying a tired particulate filter.Recorded on 1.2% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.2%

DampersLook for oil misting on the damper body behind each wheel, then push down hard on each corner of the car. It should settle in one bounce. A floaty or crashy ride on the test drive is the same fault felt from the driver's seat.Recorded on 0.8% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 2.3%

ExhaustListen along the exhaust at cold idle for blowing or chuffing, and give the tailpipe a push to check nothing hangs loose. Small blows only get louder.Recorded on 0.7% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.6%

Worth doing on any used car

These judge the seller's upkeep rather than the model.

Tyres, all fourCheck the tread across the full width of each tyre, inner edge included, and look for cracking and mismatched brands. A set of decent tyres is £500 or more on most cars, which makes this the easiest money to take off a price. If the pressure warning light is on, budget for sensors too.Recorded on 19.3% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 20.1%

Pads and discsLook through the wheel spokes at the brake disc. A pronounced lip on its outer edge, or a rusty and scored face, means discs and pads are due all round, a few hundred pounds on most cars. A haggling point rather than a reason to walk away.Recorded on 10.4% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 10.1%

Windscreen and wipersScan the glass in daylight for chips, especially in the driver's line of sight where even a small one can fail the MOT. Run the washers and check the wipers clear without smearing.Recorded on 2.3% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 2.0%

Because of what owners report

Drawn from the owner reports rather than the MOT data. These are the model-specific ones.

Drive it hard through a few roundabouts or a spirited B-road section if the seller allows it, and listen for any knocking or pressure warning.A knock or oil light flicker under load points to the oil starvation and valve gear wear issues.

Let it idle for a minute or two and listen for lumpiness or tapping from the top of the engine.A rough idle with a light knock suggests valve spring wear worth budgeting for.

Come off the throttle sharply at low speed and listen for a clonk from the rear of the car.A knock on trailing throttle is the reported rear differential fault.

Check the battery has been used recently or ask when it was last driven, and inspect for any aftermarket alarm wiring under the dash.A car that has sat for days with a flat battery, or has a badly wired aftermarket alarm, points to the known battery drain issue.

Flash the main beam and dip beam and check both work properly.A dead main beam that a bulb swap does not fix can mean a Gateway ECU replacement.

On automatics, do a longer test drive including stop-start town driving, not just a quick spin.Stalling or rough running under low-speed conditions matches the reported automatic gearbox fault.

Check the MOT history for repeated suspension or wishbone advisories.Recurring suspension advisories match the model's measured MOT fault pattern, even without a specific named part being blamed.

Full Toyota GT86 reliability report