Fault File
All models / All cars / Coupés, convertibles & GT / Toyota GT86

Toyota GT86

All generations and engines together · 6,586 MOT tests in the 2025 data · typical mileage at age 7: 44k

First-time failure at age 7
13.2%
Across 531 tests. The average across all tracked models is 19.5%.
Rank at age 7
28 of 239
1 = lowest failure rate among the models tracked.
Typical mileage at age 7
44k miles
Check the mileage view below; low-mileage models can look better by age than they are.

How this model wears

Toyota GT86Class average, all tracked models

Known issues

Measured

Computed from DVSA MOT results, all of Great Britain, 2025. Nothing here is opinion.

What testers flag

Share of tests where each item was recorded. The dark tick is the class average across all tracked models; bars are scaled within each group.

Faults with the car itself

The rows that judge the model rather than its keeper. 2,249 tests in this band.

A suspension joint dust cover severely deteriorated
Minor
4.0%class 1.6%
Significant brake effort recorded with no brake applied indicating a binding brake
Advisory
3.1%class 0.7%
A spring or spring component fractured or seriously weakened
Advisory
2.8%class 1.3%
Lambda coefficient outside the default limits or the range specified by the manufacturer
Fail
1.2%class 0.2%
Excessive fluctuation in brake effort through each wheel revolution.
Advisory
1.1%class 0.6%
A shock absorber damaged to the extent that it does not function or showing signs of severe leakage
Advisory
0.8%class 2.3%
Exhaust system leaking or insecure
Advisory
0.7%class 0.6%
Steering rack gaiter or ball joint dust cover damaged or deteriorated
Minor
0.7%class 0.0%
Exhaust noise levels in excess of those permitted
Advisory
0.7%class 0.1%

Wear, upkeep and luck

Tyres, pads and stone chips say more about how the car was driven and maintained than about how it was built.

Tyre tread depth not in accordance with the requirements
Advisory
21.9%class 22.9%
A tyre seriously damaged
Advisory
15.6%class 12.7%
Brake disc or drum excessively weakened, insecure or fractured
Advisory
10.4%class 10.1%
A brake lining or pad worn below 1.5mm
Advisory
9.2%class 8.7%
Brake disc or drum significantly and obviously worn
Advisory
3.3%class 3.4%
A rear registration plate lamp or light source missing or inoperative in the case of multiple lamps or light sources
Minor
2.7%class 1.2%
Tyre tread depth not in accordance with the requirements
Fail
2.6%class 2.2%
Windscreen or window damaged or seriously discoloured but not adversely affecting driver's view
Minor
2.3%class 2.0%

Unconfirmed issues

Reported

Owner folklore from forums and the motoring press. Most of it never shows up in an MOT, which is why this section exists at all.

Oil starvation under hard cornering

Emerging

The flat-four's sump is shallow and sits low in the chassis, and owners who track the car or drive it hard on B-roads report brief oil pressure drops under sustained lateral load, which over time is blamed for accelerated bearing and valve gear wear. It rarely shows up as a sudden failure, more as gradually rattlier top-end noise or a warning light flicker mid-corner. Track day owners commonly fit an aftermarket baffled sump or accusump as a preventative fix rather than waiting for damage.

Mainly an issue for track-used cars · sources: heycar, owner track-day discussion

Lumpy idle and valve spring wear

Emerging

A rough or lumpy idle, sometimes with a faint knocking or tapping from the top of the engine, has been reported on the 2.0 flat-four, with valve springs named as a wear point. It tends to surface once a car is out of its original warranty and shows up more on cars that have covered a lot of miles or been driven hard from cold. Repairs range from a simple idle relearn to a top-end strip if springs need replacing, so get any knocking noise checked before buying.

Typically appears once out of warranty · sources: heycar

Rear differential knock

Emerging

Owners report a knock or clonk from the rear diff area, most noticeable on a trailing throttle or when coming on and off the power. It is usually put down to worn diff mounts or internal backlash rather than anything catastrophic, and a rebuild or mount replacement is the usual fix. Not every car does it, and there is no manufacturer acknowledgement, so treat it as a listen-for-it item rather than a certainty.

Reported on higher-mileage cars · sources: heycar

Battery drain and flat batteries after standing

Confirmed pattern

A recurring complaint of batteries going flat after the car sits for a few days, sometimes traced to the interior light dimmer switch staying live, and in other cases to aftermarket alarms or immobilisers fitted by dealers not being wired correctly. Toyota is reported to have moved from a 45A to a 65A battery on affected cars, which is the closest thing to a manufacturer response found. Cheap enough to fix with a trickle charger or correct battery, but worth flagging on a car that has been sitting on a forecourt.

From new, worse on cars left standing · sources: Honest John owner reports

Main-beam headlight failure and Gateway ECU cost

Emerging

Main-beam headlight failures have been reported that trace back to the car's Gateway Network ECU rather than a simple bulb, making what looks like a cheap fix into an expensive dealer job. It is not a common complaint but it is a sting when it happens, since the ECU is not a stock part most independent garages carry. Ask whether both main and dip beam work correctly on any test drive.

Reported case dated 2021 · sources: Honest John owner reports

Automatic gearbox stalling and rough running

Automatics only

One documented case involved a 2012 automatic at around 60,000 miles stalling repeatedly and running rough, with dealers unable to pin down a cause. It is a single reported instance rather than a widespread pattern, but the automatic is the less popular gearbox in the UK and has far fewer owner reports overall, so problems on it are harder to corroborate. Worth a longer test drive including some stop-start town driving if buying an automatic.

Reported at 60k miles · sources: Honest John owner reports

Viewing one? Ask this

Built from the two sections above.

Drive it hard through a few roundabouts or a spirited B-road section if the seller allows it, and listen for any knocking or pressure warning. A knock or oil light flicker under load points to the oil starvation and valve gear wear issues.
Let it idle for a minute or two and listen for lumpiness or tapping from the top of the engine. A rough idle with a light knock suggests valve spring wear worth budgeting for.
Come off the throttle sharply at low speed and listen for a clonk from the rear of the car. A knock on trailing throttle is the reported rear differential fault.
Check the battery has been used recently or ask when it was last driven, and inspect for any aftermarket alarm wiring under the dash. A car that has sat for days with a flat battery, or has a badly wired aftermarket alarm, points to the known battery drain issue.
Flash the main beam and dip beam and check both work properly. A dead main beam that a bulb swap does not fix can mean a Gateway ECU replacement.
On automatics, do a longer test drive including stop-start town driving, not just a quick spin. Stalling or rough running under low-speed conditions matches the reported automatic gearbox fault.
Check the MOT history for repeated suspension or wishbone advisories. Recurring suspension advisories match the model's measured MOT fault pattern, even without a specific named part being blamed.

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