What are the most common Toyota Auris faults?

On Toyota Auris MOTs at ages 6-9, the items testers record most often are: A suspension pin, bush or joint excessively worn (11.2% of tests); A shock absorber damaged to the extent that it does not function or showing signs of severe leakage (7.3% of tests); Stop lamp missing, inoperative or in the case of a multiple light source more than 1/2 not functioning (4.8% of tests); A suspension joint dust cover severely deteriorated (3.5% of tests); A suspension component excessively damaged or corroded (3.4% of tests). Figures are from DVSA 2025 data.

Fault File

All models / All cars / Family hatchbacks / Toyota Auris

Toyota Auris

All generations and engines together · 124,396 MOT tests in the 2025 data · typical mileage at age 7: 89k

Reliability verdict

CBy age

CBy miles

Graded against its peers

Middling among family hatchbacks, by age and by mileage. Watch brakes and suspension. A fair used buy, provided its MOT history has no repeating brakes advisories.

First-time failure at age 7

19.9%

Across 13,389 tests. The average for family hatchbacks is 18.5%.

First-time failure at 50-60k miles

20.6%

Across 11,870 tests. The average for family hatchbacks is 20.4%.

Rank in its class

12 of 28

1 = lowest failure rate among the 28 family hatchbacks we can rank.

Typical mileage at age 7

89k miles

How far the average car has gone by seven years old. Low-mileage models can look better by age than they are.

Generation

Split by first-registration year. Cars registered in a changeover year can belong to either generation.

What owners report

Reported

Owner folklore from forums and the motoring press, with how well each report stands up. Most of it never shows up in an MOT, which is why this section exists at all.

Clutch and dual-mass flywheel wearing out early

Emerging

Owners report clutches and dual-mass flywheels failing well before you'd expect: one case at 6,000 miles on a nearly-new car, another at 35,000 miles, and a gen-one example at 27,040 miles. Some dealers have blamed driver error rather than a part fault, so warranty cover is hit and miss. A full clutch and flywheel replacement typically runs £600-900 outside warranty.

Reported 6k-35k miles, both generations · sources: Honest John owner reports (Auris 2007-2012, 2013-2018)

MultiMode automated manual gearbox misbehaving

EmergingMultiMode automatics only

The single-clutch MultiMode automated manual on early cars can act up: sudden revving to 8,000rpm with no throttle input, reluctance to downshift approaching junctions, and a shuddering stop when it finally engages. Actuator wear and software faults are the usual causes; a manual reset into M mode sometimes settles it for a while. Only affects cars with the MultiMode box, not the standard manual or the later hybrid CVT.

Gen 1, 2007-2012 · sources: Honest John owner reports

DPF regeneration overfuelling on the 2.2 D-4D

Confirmed pattern

The 2.2-litre diesel's DPF regeneration cycle has been linked to overfuelling, which washes oil off the cylinder walls and wears the piston rings and bores. Toyota extended the warranty on affected engines to 5 years, which is about as close to an official admission as this segment gets. Watch for rising oil consumption and a DPF light that won't clear.

2.2 D-4D diesel · Toyota extended warranty to 5 years · source: Honest John

Front brake corrosion and rear caliper failures

Partly in the MOT data

Owners describe front discs corroding heavily even on low-mileage cars, one reported at 8,500 miles on a 20-month-old example, plus persistent squeal put down to surface rust rather than worn pads. Rear caliper failures crop up too. The measured MOT data for this segment flags brakes as the standout fault as well, so this is one place where the forum folklore and the test-lane numbers actually line up.

Reported from 8,500 miles · source: Honest John owner reports; ties to measured MOT brake-fault rate for this segment

Steering column knock, cause disputed

Disputed

A knock from the steering column over rough surfaces shows up repeatedly in owner reports, but the fix varies: some garages replace a universal joint for around £400, others end up fitting a whole new column for closer to £1,000. With no consistent root cause identified, owners disagree on which repair is the real fix and whether it's worth chasing under goodwill once out of warranty.

Reported across model years · source: Honest John owner reports

Hybrid battery flattening when the car sits idle

EmergingHybrid only

Hybrid (HSD) Auris models can flatten their 12V and traction batteries if left unused for two to three weeks, sometimes needing an AA callout rather than a simple jump start. Jump-starting is actively discouraged on these cars, since a sudden surge of current can damage the hybrid system's circuits. Only matters if you're buying the hybrid and won't be driving it daily.

Hybrid (HSD) models only · source: Honest John owner reports

What to check on this car

Ranked from this model’s own MOT record, then from what owners report.

Saveable checklist

From this model’s MOT record

The physical checks its own defect data says are worth your time, most telling first.

Bushes and ball jointsRuns high on this model Drive slowly over broken tarmac with the windows down and listen for clonks from either end. Back at the car, have someone rock the steering wheel while you rest a hand on each front wheel; play you can feel through the tyre is a worn joint.Recorded on 11.2% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 5.9%

DampersRuns high on this model Look for oil misting on the damper body behind each wheel, then push down hard on each corner of the car. It should settle in one bounce. A floaty or crashy ride on the test drive is the same fault felt from the driver's seat.Recorded on 7.3% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 2.3%

Lights and horn walkroundRuns high on this model With a helper, run every light: dipped, main beam, indicators, brake lights including the high-level one, reverse, fog, and the horn. On newer cars a dead LED section can mean replacing the whole lamp unit rather than a bulb.Recorded on 4.8% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.8%

Rubber boots and gaitersRuns high on this model On full steering lock, look in behind each front wheel at the concertina rubber boots on the driveshafts and steering rack. Splits, or grease flung around the arch, mean dirt is getting into a joint that costs far more than the boot protecting it.Recorded on 2.1% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.6%

Underneath, with a torchRuns high on this model Get down and look at the sills, the subframes and the rear suspension mounting points. Flaking scale and bubbling matter; light surface rust does not. On older cars this is the one check that finds the fault that scraps them.Recorded on 1.8% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.7%

A binding brakeRuns high on this model After the test drive, hold the back of your hand near each wheel hub. One wheel running much hotter than the rest is a sticking caliper. A car that slows itself down when you lift off on a flat road is saying the same thing.Recorded on 1.5% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.7%

Worth doing on any used car

These judge the seller’s upkeep rather than the model, and they are where the haggling money is.

Tyres, all four Check the tread across the full width of each tyre, inner edge included, and look for cracking and mismatched brands. A set of decent tyres is £500 or more on most cars, which makes this the easiest money to take off a price. If the pressure warning light is on, budget for sensors too.Recorded on 16.8% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 20.1%

Pads and discs Look through the wheel spokes at the brake disc. A pronounced lip on its outer edge, or a rusty and scored face, means discs and pads are due all round, a few hundred pounds on most cars. A haggling point rather than a reason to walk away.Recorded on 9.8% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 10.1%

Windscreen and wipers Scan the glass in daylight for chips, especially in the driver's line of sight where even a small one can fail the MOT. Run the washers and check the wipers clear without smearing.Recorded on 2.3% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 1.7%

From this model’s MOT record

The physical checks its own defect data says are worth your time, most telling first.

Brake pipes underneathRuns high on this model Follow the metal brake lines with a torch where they run along the sills and over the rear axle. White crust or flaking metal means they are corroding, and the online MOT history usually shows the same advisory creeping up for years before the fail.Recorded on 34.9% of tests of this generation · class average 4.7%

Coil springsRuns high on this model Look through the wheel spokes at the bottom coil of each spring; when springs snap it is usually there, and the break is visible. Step back and check the car sits level too. A dropped corner is often a broken spring.Recorded on 6.9% of tests of this generation · class average 3.6%

ExhaustRuns high on this model Listen along the exhaust at cold idle for blowing or chuffing, and give the tailpipe a push to check nothing hangs loose. Small blows only get louder.Recorded on 4.4% of tests of this generation · class average 0.7%

Worth doing on any used car

These judge the seller’s upkeep rather than the model, and they are where the haggling money is.

Pads and discsRuns high on this model Look through the wheel spokes at the brake disc. A pronounced lip on its outer edge, or a rusty and scored face, means discs and pads are due all round, a few hundred pounds on most cars. A haggling point rather than a reason to walk away.Recorded on 19.9% of tests of this generation · class average 11.9%

From this model’s MOT record

The physical checks its own defect data says are worth your time, most telling first.

Underneath, with a torch Get down and look at the sills, the subframes and the rear suspension mounting points. Flaking scale and bubbling matter; light surface rust does not. On older cars this is the one check that finds the fault that scraps them.Recorded on 2.8% of tests of this generation · class average 2.2%

Coil springs Look through the wheel spokes at the bottom coil of each spring; when springs snap it is usually there, and the break is visible. Step back and check the car sits level too. A dropped corner is often a broken spring.Recorded on 2.3% of tests of this generation · class average 3.6%

Brake pipes underneath Follow the metal brake lines with a torch where they run along the sills and over the rear axle. White crust or flaking metal means they are corroding, and the online MOT history usually shows the same advisory creeping up for years before the fail.Recorded on 2.2% of tests of this generation · class average 4.7%

Worth doing on any used car

These judge the seller’s upkeep rather than the model, and they are where the haggling money is.

Because of what owners report

Drawn from the reports above rather than the MOT data. These are the model-specific ones.

Pull away gently and feel how the clutch bites. Slipping or a heavy, notchy pedal points to early clutch or dual-mass flywheel wear.

On MultiMode automatic cars, try a few slow junctions and a full-throttle pull. Sudden high revs or a shuddering stop means the actuator or software needs attention.

Check the oil level and look for a DPF warning light, especially on the 2.2 diesel. High oil consumption or a DPF light that won't reset suggests overfuelling damage.

Get the car on a ramp or look through the wheels at the front discs. Heavy rust or pitting on a low-mileage car is a known weak point, not just neglect.

Drive over a rough patch of road and listen for a knock from the steering column. A knock here could mean a £400 UJ or a £1,000 column, so budget for the worse case.

Ask a hybrid seller how often the car is actually driven. A car left sitting for weeks at a time is more likely to have a weak 12V or hybrid battery.

Check the MOT history for repeated brake advisories. Recurring brake advisories back up the pattern of early disc corrosion seen in owner reports.

Open the saveable checklist, tick it off at the car

The MOT data

Measured

Computed from DVSA MOT results, all of Great Britain, 2025. Nothing here is opinion.

How this model wears

Toyota AurisClass average, all tracked models

What testers flag

Share of tests where each item was recorded. The dark tick is the class average across all tracked models; bars are scaled within each group.

Faults with the car itself

The rows that judge the model rather than its keeper. 54,293 tests in this band.

A suspension pin, bush or joint excessively worn

Advisory

11.2%class 5.9%

A shock absorber damaged to the extent that it does not function or showing signs of severe leakage

Advisory

7.3%class 2.3%

Stop lamp missing, inoperative or in the case of a multiple light source more than 1/2 not functioning

Fail

4.8%class 0.8%

A suspension joint dust cover severely deteriorated

Minor

3.5%class 1.6%

A suspension component excessively damaged or corroded

Advisory

3.4%class 0.8%

A headlamp or light source missing, inoperative or more than ½ not functioning in the case of LED

Fail

2.0%class 0.8%

Steering rack gaiter or ball joint dust cover damaged or deteriorated

Minor

1.6%class 0.7%

Significant brake effort recorded with no brake applied indicating a binding brake

Advisory

1.5%class 0.7%

A shock absorber damaged to the extent that it does not function or showing signs of severe leakage

Fail

1.1%class 0.4%

Wear, upkeep and luck

Tyres, pads and stone chips say more about how the car was driven and maintained than about how it was built.

Tyre tread depth not in accordance with the requirements

Advisory

19.3%class 22.9%

A tyre seriously damaged

Advisory

13.8%class 12.7%

Brake disc or drum excessively weakened, insecure or fractured

Advisory

9.8%class 10.1%

A brake lining or pad worn below 1.5mm

Advisory

7.4%class 8.7%

Brake disc or drum significantly and obviously worn

Advisory

4.9%class 3.4%

A rear registration plate lamp or light source missing or inoperative in the case of multiple lamps or light sources

Minor

2.9%class 1.2%

Wiper blade missing or obviously not clearing the windscreen

Fail

2.3%class 1.7%

A rear registration plate lamp or light source missing or inoperative in the case of a single lamp or all lamps

Fail

2.1%class 0.6%

Others in its class

Same segment (Family hatchbacks), best MOT record first. Compare before you shortlist.

Lexus CT11.9%Toyota Prius12.7%Audi A313.9%BMW i313.9%Volkswagen Golf14.6%Hyundai Ioniq16.2%See all Family hatchbacksreliability ranked

Toyota Auris

Generation

What owners report

Clutch and dual-mass flywheel wearing out early

MultiMode automated manual gearbox misbehaving

DPF regeneration overfuelling on the 2.2 D-4D

Front brake corrosion and rear caliper failures

Steering column knock, cause disputed

Hybrid battery flattening when the car sits idle

What to check on this car

From this model’s MOT record

Worth doing on any used car

From this model’s MOT record

Worth doing on any used car

From this model’s MOT record

Worth doing on any used car

Because of what owners report

The MOT data

How this model wears

What testers flag

Faults with the car itself

Wear, upkeep and luck

By fuel & engine

Others in its class