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What to check: Kia Sedona

Ranked across all years of the Kia Sedona, from its own MOT record and from what owners report. Tick it off at the car.

From this model's MOT record

The physical checks its own defect data says are worth your time, most telling first.

Bushes and ball jointsRuns high on this modelDrive slowly over broken tarmac with the windows down and listen for clonks from either end. Back at the car, have someone rock the steering wheel while you rest a hand on each front wheel; play you can feel through the tyre is a worn joint.Recorded on 29.2% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 9.0%

Brake pipes underneathRuns high on this modelFollow the metal brake lines with a torch where they run along the sills and over the rear axle. White crust or flaking metal means they are corroding, and the online MOT history usually shows the same advisory creeping up for years before the fail.Recorded on 16.1% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 6.2%

Coil springsRuns high on this modelLook through the wheel spokes at the bottom coil of each spring; when springs snap it is usually there, and the break is visible. Step back and check the car sits level too. A dropped corner is often a broken spring.Recorded on 15.3% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 5.0%

Underneath, with a torchRuns high on this modelGet down and look at the sills, the subframes and the rear suspension mounting points. Flaking scale and bubbling matter; light surface rust does not. On older cars this is the one check that finds the fault that scraps them.Recorded on 10.6% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 3.1%

Lights and horn walkroundRuns high on this modelWith a helper, run every light: dipped, main beam, indicators, brake lights including the high-level one, reverse, fog, and the horn. On newer cars a dead LED section can mean replacing the whole lamp unit rather than a bulb.Recorded on 9.7% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 3.3%

LeaksRuns high on this modelLook at the ground where the car usually stands, then glance under the engine after your test drive. Fresh drips of oil or coolant are the cheapest warning you will ever get about a car.Recorded on 9.6% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 4.8%

A binding brakeRuns high on this modelAfter the test drive, hold the back of your hand near each wheel hub. One wheel running much hotter than the rest is a sticking caliper. A car that slows itself down when you lift off on a flat road is saying the same thing.Recorded on 5.2% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 1.4%

Worth doing on any used car

These judge the seller's upkeep rather than the model.

Tyres, all fourCheck the tread across the full width of each tyre, inner edge included, and look for cracking and mismatched brands. A set of decent tyres is £500 or more on most cars, which makes this the easiest money to take off a price. If the pressure warning light is on, budget for sensors too.Recorded on 27.8% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 20.9%

Pads and discsLook through the wheel spokes at the brake disc. A pronounced lip on its outer edge, or a rusty and scored face, means discs and pads are due all round, a few hundred pounds on most cars. A haggling point rather than a reason to walk away.Recorded on 11.9% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 11.4%

Windscreen and wipersRuns high on this modelScan the glass in daylight for chips, especially in the driver's line of sight where even a small one can fail the MOT. Run the washers and check the wipers clear without smearing.Recorded on 3.4% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 2.0%

Because of what owners report

Drawn from the owner reports rather than the MOT data. These are the model-specific ones.

Check the MOT history for corrosion or suspension advisories on the front lower arms, and ask if the corrosion recall was ever carried out.Repeated suspension advisories, or no record of the recall, means the arms may already be weakening.

Get the car on a ramp or lean underneath with a torch and look at the front lower arms for flaking rust, not just surface dirt.Heavy scale or pitting on the inner face is the corrosion the recall was written for.

On the diesel, check the fuel filter and service history for any past fuel system work or a warning about metal in the filter.A history of fuel filter changes or a garage note about swarf points to a pump on its way out.

Drive an automatic through a full range of speeds including a motorway stint if possible, and watch for a jolt in Drive at a standstill.Slipping, hunting, or getting stuck in gear is expensive and rarely gets better on its own.

On the 2.9 CRDi, ask for cambelt paperwork with a date and mileage, not just a service stamp.No proof of a belt change within the last 60-90k miles or 8 years is a real risk of a wrecked engine.

Open and close both sliding doors by hand and by switch several times, including from outside.Grinding, failure to latch, or the switch sticking points to the door electronics fault.

Watch the dash for the engine management light under load, especially pulling away hard from a junction.A light with hesitation or a flat spot needs a proper diagnosis before you buy, not after.

Full Kia Sedona reliability report