Fault File
All models / All cars / Family hatchbacks / Hyundai i30

Hyundai i30

All generations and engines together · 94,845 MOT tests in the 2025 data · typical mileage at age 7: 62k

Reliability verdict
CBy age
EBy miles

Graded against its peers

Middling for its age among family hatchbacks, but one of the worst per mile driven. Watch suspension and steering. One to judge on its mileage rather than its age, and worth it only if its MOT history has no repeating suspension advisories.

First-time failure at age 7
18.4%
Across 7,121 tests. The average for family hatchbacks is 18.5%.
First-time failure at 50-60k miles
27.1%
Across 9,605 tests. The average for family hatchbacks is 20.4%.
Rank in its class
10 of 28
1 = lowest failure rate among the 28 family hatchbacks we can rank.
Typical mileage at age 7
62k miles
How far the average car has gone by seven years old. Low-mileage models can look better by age than they are.

Generation

Split by first-registration year. Cars registered in a changeover year can belong to either generation.

What owners report

Reported

Owner folklore from forums and the motoring press, with how well each report stands up. Most of it never shows up in an MOT, which is why this section exists at all.

DCT gearbox hesitates or drops drive at low speed

Emerging

Owners of the 7-speed dual-clutch automatic (mostly the 1.4 T-GDI) report the box losing drive momentarily at low speed, usually restored by lifting off the accelerator, and notchy, hesitant changes between 1st and 2nd or into reverse. It points to the mechatronic unit or clutch actuation, and Hyundai has not owned up to a pattern, though dealers have tried software updates on individual cars. Not seen on manual i30s.

Reported from under a year old on 1.4 DCT cars · sources: Honest John Ask HJ (Feb 2019, Jan 2020 threads)

DPF regenerating far too often on the 1.6 CRDi diesel

Emerging

Some 1.6 CRDi diesels go into active regeneration every 30-50 miles instead of every few hundred, which tanks fuel economy (owners report mpg falling from the 70s into the 50s) and points to a lazy sensor or a car mostly doing short runs. It is more a symptom of town-driven diesels than a factory fault, and there is no recall for it, but it is a real running cost buyers should budget for on high-mileage diesel examples.

Reported on 2018-on 1.6 CRDi · sources: Honest John Ask HJ, general diesel-DPF owner reports

More faults per car than class rivals, without one single culprit

Disputed

What Car?'s reliability survey work places Hyundai itself near the top of the manufacturer table, but flags that the i30 specifically racks up more faults per car than a Focus or a Corolla, without naming which system is to blame. Owners on forums argue about whether this is real or just a reflection of Hyundai's shorter UK ownership history skewing the sample. Worth knowing before you assume Hyundai's brand reputation carries over one-for-one to this specific car.

From manufacturer/model reliability surveys · sources: What Car? reliability review

Front suspension knocks and creaks

Partly in the MOT data

Reviewers consistently note the i30's suspension is on the noisy, floaty side even when new, softer and more vocal over bumps than a Mazda 3 or Focus, which is exactly the kind of car that develops early clonks from anti-roll bar links, drop links and strut top mounts as bushes age. The measured MOT data for this segment backs it up too: suspension is the standout signature fault for family hatches generally, and the i30 fits that pattern. Typical fixes are drop links and ARB bushes, a few hundred pounds rather than a big bill.

Noted from new, worsens from 60k+ · sources: What Car?, Parkers reliability reviews, plus measured MOT advisory data for the family-hatch segment

Camera and driver-assist sensor faults

Disputed

At least one owner reported the lane-assist and AEB warning lights coming on at low speed, traced to a faulty forward-facing camera unit behind the mirror, with a dealer quoting around £3,000 for a like-for-like replacement (covered under warranty in that case). It is a single well-documented report rather than a pattern across many owners, but it is worth knowing the part is expensive if it fails once the five-year warranty has run out.

Reported on a 2017 1.4 T-GDI · sources: Honest John Ask HJ (May 2018)

What to check on this car

Ranked from this model’s own MOT record, then from what owners report.

Saveable checklist

From this model’s MOT record

The physical checks its own defect data says are worth your time, most telling first.

Bushes and ball joints Drive slowly over broken tarmac with the windows down and listen for clonks from either end. Back at the car, have someone rock the steering wheel while you rest a hand on each front wheel; play you can feel through the tyre is a worn joint.Recorded on 8.7% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 5.9%
Lights and horn walkroundRuns high on this model With a helper, run every light: dipped, main beam, indicators, brake lights including the high-level one, reverse, fog, and the horn. On newer cars a dead LED section can mean replacing the whole lamp unit rather than a bulb.Recorded on 4.0% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.8%
Handbrake holdRuns high on this model Stop on a hill and put the handbrake on. It should hold the car firmly within a few clicks, or straight away on the button if it is electronic. Roll-back means adjustment at best, new cables or a caliper motor at worst.Recorded on 3.1% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.3%
Headlamp lensesRuns high on this model Check for condensation inside the headlamps and for cloudy or yellowed lenses. Both attract MOT trouble, and moisture inside a sealed LED unit generally means a whole new lamp.Recorded on 2.6% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.3%
A binding brakeRuns high on this model After the test drive, hold the back of your hand near each wheel hub. One wheel running much hotter than the rest is a sticking caliper. A car that slows itself down when you lift off on a flat road is saying the same thing.Recorded on 2.4% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.7%
Underneath, with a torchRuns high on this model Get down and look at the sills, the subframes and the rear suspension mounting points. Flaking scale and bubbling matter; light surface rust does not. On older cars this is the one check that finds the fault that scraps them.Recorded on 1.2% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.7%
Coil springs Look through the wheel spokes at the bottom coil of each spring; when springs snap it is usually there, and the break is visible. Step back and check the car sits level too. A dropped corner is often a broken spring.Recorded on 1.4% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 1.3%

Worth doing on any used car

These judge the seller’s upkeep rather than the model, and they are where the haggling money is.

Tyres, all four Check the tread across the full width of each tyre, inner edge included, and look for cracking and mismatched brands. A set of decent tyres is £500 or more on most cars, which makes this the easiest money to take off a price. If the pressure warning light is on, budget for sensors too.Recorded on 27.4% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 20.1%
Pads and discs Look through the wheel spokes at the brake disc. A pronounced lip on its outer edge, or a rusty and scored face, means discs and pads are due all round, a few hundred pounds on most cars. A haggling point rather than a reason to walk away.Recorded on 14.4% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 10.1%
Windscreen and wipers Scan the glass in daylight for chips, especially in the driver's line of sight where even a small one can fail the MOT. Run the washers and check the wipers clear without smearing.Recorded on 2.1% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 1.7%

Because of what owners report

Drawn from the reports above rather than the MOT data. These are the model-specific ones.

Drive the DCT car gently from a stop and through 1st-2nd a few times, including a reverse-forward manoeuvre. Any hesitation, a momentary loss of drive, or a notchy clunk into 1st or reverse suggests the mechatronic/clutch issue owners report.
On a diesel, ask the seller when it last did a full regen or a long motorway run. A diesel that's only ever done short trips is more likely to have DPF regeneration problems and a shortened filter life.
Listen for creaks and knocks from the front end over speed bumps and on full lock. Clonking from the front suggests worn anti-roll bar links, drop links or strut top mounts, cheap to fix individually but a sign of a neglected car if there are several at once.
Check the MOT history for repeated suspension advisories. The same suspension advisory appearing two or three years running means it's been ignored, not fixed.
Test the lane-assist and AEB warning lights by starting the car and watching the dash. A lit or flickering warning icon can mean a faulty forward camera, an expensive part to replace out of warranty.
Ask for full service history and confirm the DCT fluid/filter has been changed on schedule. Dual-clutch boxes are more sensitive to skipped fluid changes than a torque converter automatic; no record is a red flag on a high-mileage car.
Get a five-year-old-plus car on a diagnostic check before buying if possible. Stored fault codes for camera, DCT mechatronics or DPF sensors often show up before a warning light does.

The MOT data

Measured

Computed from DVSA MOT results, all of Great Britain, 2025. Nothing here is opinion.

How this model wears

Hyundai i30Class average, all tracked models

What testers flag

Share of tests where each item was recorded. The dark tick is the class average across all tracked models; bars are scaled within each group.

Faults with the car itself

The rows that judge the model rather than its keeper. 33,000 tests in this band.

A suspension pin, bush or joint excessively worn
Advisory
8.7%class 5.9%
Stop lamp missing, inoperative or in the case of a multiple light source more than 1/2 not functioning
Fail
4.0%class 0.8%
Parking brake efficiency below minimum requirement
Fail
3.1%class 0.3%
Lamp emitted colour, position or intensity not in accordance with the requirements
Advisory
2.6%class 0.3%
A headlamp or light source missing, inoperative or more than ½ not functioning in the case of LED
Fail
2.4%class 0.8%
Significant brake effort recorded with no brake applied indicating a binding brake
Advisory
2.4%class 0.7%
A suspension pin, bush or joint excessively worn
Fail
2.3%class 0.9%
Parking brake inoperative on one side
Fail
1.6%class 0.2%
A spring or spring component fractured or seriously weakened
Advisory
1.4%class 1.3%
Lamp emitted colour, position or intensity not in accordance with the requirements
Fail
1.3%class 0.1%

Wear, upkeep and luck

Tyres, pads and stone chips say more about how the car was driven and maintained than about how it was built.

Tyre tread depth not in accordance with the requirements
Advisory
30.5%class 22.9%
Brake disc or drum excessively weakened, insecure or fractured
Advisory
14.4%class 10.1%
A tyre seriously damaged
Advisory
14.3%class 12.7%
A brake lining or pad worn below 1.5mm
Advisory
11.0%class 8.7%
Brake disc or drum significantly and obviously worn
Advisory
4.8%class 3.4%
Tyre tread depth not in accordance with the requirements
Fail
3.6%class 2.3%
Child Seat fitted not allowing full inspection of adult belt
Advisory
3.4%class 2.2%
A brake lining or pad worn below 1.5mm
Fail
2.7%class 1.6%

Others in its class

Same segment (Family hatchbacks), best MOT record first. Compare before you shortlist.