Fault File
All models / All cars / Saloons & estates / Honda Accord

Honda Accord

All generations and engines together · 6,037 MOT tests in the 2025 data · typical mileage at age 7: 106k

Reliability verdict

Not enough recent tests to rate this saloon or estate. Watch suspension and lights & electrics. Not enough recent MOT data to call this one yet.

Typical mileage at age 7
106k miles
How far the average car has gone by seven years old. Low-mileage models can look better by age than they are.

Generation

Split by first-registration year. Cars registered in a changeover year can belong to either generation.

What owners report

Reported

Owner folklore from forums and the motoring press, with how well each report stands up. Most of it never shows up in an MOT, which is why this section exists at all.

Diesel clutch and dual-mass flywheel wear

Confirmed pattern

On the 2.2 i-CTDi and 2.2 i-DTEC diesel manuals, the clutch and dual-mass flywheel can wear out or start slipping well before a normal clutch's life. Honest John lists cases from as early as 10,000-30,000 miles against a normal 80,000-120,000 mile lifespan, with Honda's own Service Bulletin 1269 requiring dealers to investigate before any warranty replacement is agreed. A full clutch and DMF job is commonly £800-£1,200.

Reported 10-30k miles on affected cars, spans both 2003-2008 and 2008-2015 diesel · sources: Honest John (carbycar Accord 2003-2008 and 2008-2015 pages, citing Honda Service Bulletin 1269)

Sunroof frame corrosion

Confirmed pattern

2008-2013 UK-spec Accords are prone to rust bubbling up around the sunroof frame and headliner edge, visible as brown staining or flaking paint around the aperture. It is common enough that Honda ended up replacing rusty sunroofs free of charge on 2009 model-year cars after initial pushback, though older or later cars outside that goodwill window still face a bill for a new frame and re-trimming.

Reported from around 5 years old on 2008-2013 cars · sources: Honest John (carbycar Accord 2008-2015)

Automatic gearbox software quirks

DisputedAutomatics only

Both the 2003-2008 5-speed auto and the 2008-2015 5-speed diesel auto have a reputation for indecisive shifting, described by owners as picking the wrong ratio mid-corner, plus a known transmission-ECU software issue that makes the box noisy on the earlier cars. It is not a mechanical failure as such, just an unrefined shift strategy, but it puts buyers off the automatic versions in favour of the manual.

From new, worsens with age · sources: Honest John (carbycar Accord 2003-2008 and 2008-2015)

DPF clogging and forced regeneration

EmergingDiesel only

On the 2008-2015 2.2 i-DTEC, owners report the DPF warning light coming on repeatedly, in some cases every 750 miles, usually from cars used mainly for short runs. Dealers have had to run forced regenerations every few months on the worst examples, and at least one owner was offered a 50% trade-in buyback by Honda after the fault could not be permanently resolved. Expect £1,000-£2,000 for a replacement filter if it clogs solid.

Reported mainly from 2013 onward on affected cars · sources: Honest John (carbycar Accord 2008-2015)

ABS/VSA module failure

Emerging

Both generations show a pattern of ABS and VSA (stability control) warning lights appearing from around 4 years old, usually down to the ABS/VSA modulator or module itself rather than a wheel sensor. Honest John quotes around £1,600 for the 2003-2008 cars and as much as £2,250 for a dealer modulator replacement on the 2008-2015 cars, though independent refurbishment can come in nearer £300. No recall or TSB covers it, it is just a recurring theme in reader reports.

From around 4 years / 60k+ miles · sources: Honest John (carbycar Accord 2003-2008 and 2008-2015)

Weak 12V battery and parasitic drain

Disputed

The 45-amp battery fitted to petrol Accords has a reputation for going flat, with some owners reporting a working life as short as 18 months instead of the usual 4-5 years. Suspected causes range from water ingress into the fuse board from a bulkhead vent to faulty starter or oil-pressure switches, but Honest John itself notes the exact cause varies car to car, so it is more a recurring nuisance than a single diagnosed fault. A new battery is cheap, but repeat failures point to a wiring or module drain worth chasing down.

Reported from 18 months old in worst cases · sources: Honest John (carbycar Accord 2003-2008)

What to check on this car

Ranked from this model’s own MOT record, then from what owners report.

Saveable checklist

From this model’s MOT record

The physical checks its own defect data says are worth your time, most telling first.

Bushes and ball joints Drive slowly over broken tarmac with the windows down and listen for clonks from either end. Back at the car, have someone rock the steering wheel while you rest a hand on each front wheel; play you can feel through the tyre is a worn joint.Recorded on 12.8% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 9.0%
Headlamp lensesRuns high on this model Check for condensation inside the headlamps and for cloudy or yellowed lenses. Both attract MOT trouble, and moisture inside a sealed LED unit generally means a whole new lamp.Recorded on 7.0% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 1.3%
Lights and horn walkroundRuns high on this model With a helper, run every light: dipped, main beam, indicators, brake lights including the high-level one, reverse, fog, and the horn. On newer cars a dead LED section can mean replacing the whole lamp unit rather than a bulb.Recorded on 5.8% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 3.5%
Underneath, with a torch Get down and look at the sills, the subframes and the rear suspension mounting points. Flaking scale and bubbling matter; light surface rust does not. On older cars this is the one check that finds the fault that scraps them.Recorded on 6.2% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 4.3%
A binding brakeRuns high on this model After the test drive, hold the back of your hand near each wheel hub. One wheel running much hotter than the rest is a sticking caliper. A car that slows itself down when you lift off on a flat road is saying the same thing.Recorded on 3.3% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 1.4%
Rubber boots and gaitersRuns high on this model On full steering lock, look in behind each front wheel at the concertina rubber boots on the driveshafts and steering rack. Splits, or grease flung around the arch, mean dirt is getting into a joint that costs far more than the boot protecting it.Recorded on 2.9% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 0.9%
Brake pipes underneathRuns high on this model Follow the metal brake lines with a torch where they run along the sills and over the rear axle. White crust or flaking metal means they are corroding, and the online MOT history usually shows the same advisory creeping up for years before the fail.Recorded on 2.4% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 1.6%

Worth doing on any used car

These judge the seller’s upkeep rather than the model, and they are where the haggling money is.

Tyres, all four Check the tread across the full width of each tyre, inner edge included, and look for cracking and mismatched brands. A set of decent tyres is £500 or more on most cars, which makes this the easiest money to take off a price. If the pressure warning light is on, budget for sensors too.Recorded on 29.1% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 20.9%
Pads and discsRuns high on this model Look through the wheel spokes at the brake disc. A pronounced lip on its outer edge, or a rusty and scored face, means discs and pads are due all round, a few hundred pounds on most cars. A haggling point rather than a reason to walk away.Recorded on 12.3% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 7.3%
Windscreen and wipers Scan the glass in daylight for chips, especially in the driver's line of sight where even a small one can fail the MOT. Run the washers and check the wipers clear without smearing.Recorded on 3.8% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 2.6%

Because of what owners report

Drawn from the reports above rather than the MOT data. These are the model-specific ones.

On a diesel manual, pull away uphill or under load and feel for clutch slip or slur between gears. Slipping or a flare in revs without matching road speed points to early clutch/DMF wear, a known issue on i-CTDi and i-DTEC cars.
Run a hand round the sunroof frame edge and check the headliner trim for staining. Bubbling paint or brown watermarks mean the sunroof frame is rusting from underneath, common on 2008-2013 cars.
On an automatic, drive it through a roundabout or tight bend and note how the box picks gears. Hunting or holding the wrong ratio mid-corner is the reported software quirk, not necessarily a fault to walk away from but worth knowing about.
On a diesel, ask how the car is normally used and check for a recent DPF warning or regeneration in the service history. A car used mostly for short runs with repeated DPF lights is heading for an expensive filter, or has already had forced regens that mask a deeper clogging problem.
Start the car cold and watch the dash for ABS or VSA warning lights staying lit after a minute or two. A lit ABS/VSA light points at the modulator or module, a recurring and pricey fault on both generations.
Ask when the battery was last replaced, and if possible leave the car unattended for an hour then try a cold restart. A battery replaced repeatedly in under 2-3 years suggests a parasitic drain somewhere in the electrics, not just a tired battery.
Check the service history for any clutch investigation, inlet manifold, or timing chain work under goodwill or extended warranty. Honda ran extended cover for some of these diesel issues, so a paper trail here is a good sign the car was looked after properly.

The MOT data

Measured

Computed from DVSA MOT results, all of Great Britain, 2025. Nothing here is opinion.

How this model wears

Honda AccordClass average, all tracked models

What testers flag

Share of tests where each item was recorded. The dark tick is the class average across all tracked models; bars are scaled within each group.

Faults with the car itself

The rows that judge the model rather than its keeper. 5,899 tests in this band.

A suspension pin, bush or joint excessively worn
Advisory
26.0%class 13.6%
Headlamp reflector or lens slightly defective
Minor
7.0%class 1.3%
Product on the lens or light source which obviously reduces light intensity or changes emitted colour to other than whit
Advisory
6.2%class 0.9%
A suspension component excessively damaged or corroded
Advisory
6.2%class 4.3%
A lamp missing, inoperative or in the case of a multiple light source more than 1/2 not functioning
Fail
5.8%class 3.5%
A headlamp or light source missing, inoperative or more than ½ not functioning in the case of LED
Fail
3.4%class 1.4%
Significant brake effort recorded with no brake applied indicating a binding brake
Advisory
3.3%class 1.4%
A suspension pin, bush or joint excessively worn
Fail
3.3%class 1.8%
A spring or spring component fractured or seriously weakened
Advisory
3.1%class 5.0%
A shock absorber damaged to the extent that it does not function or showing signs of severe leakage
Advisory
3.0%class 2.7%

Wear, upkeep and luck

Tyres, pads and stone chips say more about how the car was driven and maintained than about how it was built.

Tyre tread depth not in accordance with the requirements
Advisory
32.7%class 23.4%
A brake lining or pad worn below 1.5mm
Advisory
12.3%class 7.3%
Brake disc or drum excessively weakened, insecure or fractured
Advisory
9.5%class 11.4%
A tyre seriously damaged
Advisory
9.3%class 9.7%
A rear registration plate lamp or light source missing or inoperative in the case of multiple lamps or light sources
Minor
5.1%class 3.3%
Number plate inscription missing or illegible
Advisory
4.6%class 2.3%
The aim of a headlamp is not within limits laid down in the requirements
Fail
4.2%class 1.4%
A brake lining or pad worn below 1.5mm
Fail
3.9%class 1.7%

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