Fault File
All models / All cars / Family hatchbacks / Ford Focus

Ford Focus

All generations and engines together · 707,036 MOT tests in the 2025 data · typical mileage at age 7: 60k

Reliability verdict
CBy age
CBy miles

Graded against its peers

Middling among family hatchbacks, by age and by mileage. Watch suspension and lights & electrics. A fair used buy, provided its MOT history has no repeating suspension advisories.

First-time failure at age 7
18.3%
Across 53,159 tests. The average for family hatchbacks is 18.5%.
First-time failure at 50-60k miles
22.1%
Across 70,415 tests. The average for family hatchbacks is 20.4%.
Rank in its class
9 of 28
1 = lowest failure rate among the 28 family hatchbacks we can rank.
Typical mileage at age 7
60k miles
How far the average car has gone by seven years old. Low-mileage models can look better by age than they are.

Generation

Split by first-registration year. Cars registered in a changeover year can belong to either generation.

What owners report

Reported

Owner folklore from forums and the motoring press, with how well each report stands up. Most of it never shows up in an MOT, which is why this section exists at all.

Wet-belt timing belt disintegration (1.0 EcoBoost)

Confirmed pattern

The 1.0 EcoBoost's cambelt runs inside the engine oil rather than out in the open, and the rubber breaks down and sheds debris that clogs the oil pickup and starves the engine of oil. Owners report a rattly cold start, an oil pressure warning light, or metal flecks in the oil well before Ford's quoted 150,000-mile belt life, often between 60,000 and 100,000 miles. A full engine rebuild or replacement runs roughly £2,000 to £4,000; Ford quietly moved this engine to a conventional timing chain from late 2018.

Reported 60-100k miles, mainly 2012-2018 cars · sources: Parkers, Honest John, Ford Owners Club forum

Cracked cylinder head / head gasket on early 1.0 EcoBoost

Emerging

A separate weak spot on the same engine family, thought to stem from the open-deck block design and brittle coolant hoses that eventually split. Symptoms are coolant loss with no visible leak, white smoke on start-up, and overheating, showing up anywhere from around 30,000 to 80,000 miles. A head or head gasket replacement is typically £1,200-£2,000. Ford has not put out a public recall for this, though later revisions to the head and hoses reduced reports.

Reported 30-80k miles, early 1.0 EcoBoost cars · sources: PistonHeads, Ford Owners Club, Fiesta Faction (shared engine)

PowerShift dry-clutch shudder and slip

Confirmed patternAutomatics only

The 6-speed PowerShift automatic uses a dry twin clutch, and a leaking input shaft seal lets transmission fluid drip onto the clutch plates, causing shudder pulling away from a stop and a harsh 1st-to-2nd shift. It's common enough that Ford extended the UK warranty on affected units from 3 to 5 years and issued technical bulletins covering the seal and clutch pack. Repairs (seal plus clutch pack) generally cost £450-£900; a full unit replacement costs more. Manual-gearbox cars aren't affected.

Reported from new through to 60k+ miles · sources: Honest John (Ask HJ), Focus Fanatics forum

EGR and DPF clogging on TDCi diesels

Emerging

A sticky or carboned-up EGR valve brings rough running, black smoke on acceleration, and sometimes limp mode on the 1.6 and 2.0 TDCi units. Separately, cars used mainly for short journeys never get the DPF hot enough to burn off soot, so it blocks and needs a forced regeneration or replacement. Both tend to show up from around 60,000 miles onward. An EGR clean or replacement is roughly £150-£450, a DPF replacement £600-£1,200. No manufacturer recall covers this, it's largely down to how the car has been driven.

Reported from 60k miles, diesel only · sources: PassionFord forum, Focus Fanatics forum

SYNC 2 / SYNC 3 infotainment freezing

Disputed

Some cars get a touchscreen that lags, blanks, or fully locks up mid-drive, taking the sat-nav, phone pairing, and sometimes the reversing camera with it. A dealer software update or a manual reset (holding the power and seek buttons) usually clears it, but it can come back. Owners are split on how big a deal this is: some units never misbehave, others need repeat resets over years of ownership, and there's no clear pattern by age or mileage.

Reported across model years, no clear mileage pattern · sources: Ford Owners Club forum, Ford Sync Forum

What to check on this car

Ranked from this model’s own MOT record, then from what owners report.

Saveable checklist

From this model’s MOT record

The physical checks its own defect data says are worth your time, most telling first.

Bushes and ball joints Drive slowly over broken tarmac with the windows down and listen for clonks from either end. Back at the car, have someone rock the steering wheel while you rest a hand on each front wheel; play you can feel through the tyre is a worn joint.Recorded on 7.2% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 5.9%
Underneath, with a torchRuns high on this model Get down and look at the sills, the subframes and the rear suspension mounting points. Flaking scale and bubbling matter; light surface rust does not. On older cars this is the one check that finds the fault that scraps them.Recorded on 1.5% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.6%
WheelsRuns high on this model Look at each rim for kerb damage and check no wheel nuts are missing. A steering wheel that shimmies between 50 and 60 on the test drive often turns out to be a buckled or badly balanced wheel.Recorded on 1.4% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.6%
Lights and horn walkround With a helper, run every light: dipped, main beam, indicators, brake lights including the high-level one, reverse, fog, and the horn. On newer cars a dead LED section can mean replacing the whole lamp unit rather than a bulb.Recorded on 1.8% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 1.3%
Warning lights on ignitionRuns high on this model Turn the ignition on without starting the engine and watch the dash. Every warning light should appear, then go out once it is running. Be more suspicious of a light that never comes on at all than of one that stays on; warning bulbs have been known to vanish before a sale.Recorded on 1.2% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.5%
Dampers Look for oil misting on the damper body behind each wheel, then push down hard on each corner of the car. It should settle in one bounce. A floaty or crashy ride on the test drive is the same fault felt from the driver's seat.Recorded on 1.6% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 2.3%
Leaks Look at the ground where the car usually stands, then glance under the engine after your test drive. Fresh drips of oil or coolant are the cheapest warning you will ever get about a car.Recorded on 1.5% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 2.0%

Worth doing on any used car

These judge the seller’s upkeep rather than the model, and they are where the haggling money is.

Tyres, all four Check the tread across the full width of each tyre, inner edge included, and look for cracking and mismatched brands. A set of decent tyres is £500 or more on most cars, which makes this the easiest money to take off a price. If the pressure warning light is on, budget for sensors too.Recorded on 26.8% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 20.1%
Pads and discs Look through the wheel spokes at the brake disc. A pronounced lip on its outer edge, or a rusty and scored face, means discs and pads are due all round, a few hundred pounds on most cars. A haggling point rather than a reason to walk away.Recorded on 11.2% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 8.7%
Windscreen and wipers Scan the glass in daylight for chips, especially in the driver's line of sight where even a small one can fail the MOT. Run the washers and check the wipers clear without smearing.Recorded on 1.7% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 2.0%

Because of what owners report

Drawn from the reports above rather than the MOT data. These are the model-specific ones.

Start the engine stone cold before the seller warms it up, and listen at the front of the block. A rattly, tinny sound in the first few seconds on a 1.0 EcoBoost points to wet-belt wear.
Pull the oil dipstick and check the colour and consistency, and ask for the coolant top-up history. Mayonnaise-like residue or frequent coolant top-ups suggest a head gasket problem brewing.
On a PowerShift automatic, pull away gently from a stop several times, including uphill if possible. Any shudder, vibration, or hesitation on light throttle is the classic dry-clutch shudder.
Push down hard on each rear corner and let go, then get a passenger to drive slowly over a speed bump while you listen from outside. A clonk or knock means worn anti-roll bar links or rear bushes, not necessarily anything structural.
On a diesel, accelerate hard from low revs and watch the exhaust and the dash for warning lights. Black smoke, hesitation, or a limp-mode-style power cut suggests EGR or DPF trouble.
Work through the touchscreen menus and pair a phone by Bluetooth and CarPlay/Android Auto. Lag, blank screens, or a full reboot during this test is the SYNC freezing fault showing itself.
Pull the full MOT history online rather than trusting the seller's word. Repeated suspension advisories on the same component is a sign nothing is actually being fixed between tests.

The MOT data

Measured

Computed from DVSA MOT results, all of Great Britain, 2025. Nothing here is opinion.

How this model wears

Ford FocusClass average, all tracked models

What testers flag

Share of tests where each item was recorded. The dark tick is the class average across all tracked models; bars are scaled within each group.

Faults with the car itself

The rows that judge the model rather than its keeper. 234,375 tests in this band.

A suspension pin, bush or joint excessively worn
Advisory
7.2%class 5.9%
A suspension component excessively damaged or corroded
Advisory
2.6%class 1.3%
A lamp missing, inoperative or in the case of a multiple light source more than 1/2 not functioning
Fail
1.8%class 1.3%
A shock absorber damaged to the extent that it does not function or showing signs of severe leakage
Advisory
1.6%class 2.3%
A spring or spring component fractured or seriously weakened
Advisory
1.5%class 1.3%
Fluid leaking excessively and likely to harm the environment or to pose a safety risk to other road users
Advisory
1.5%class 2.0%
A direction indicator lamp missing, inoperative or in the case of a multiple light source more than 1/2 not functioning
Fail
1.4%class 0.2%
A wheel badly distorted or wear between wheel and hub at spigot mounting
Advisory
1.4%class 0.6%
Engine MIL illuminated indicating a malfunction
Fail
1.2%class 0.5%
Stop lamp missing, inoperative or in the case of a multiple light source more than 1/2 not functioning
Fail
1.0%class 0.8%

Wear, upkeep and luck

Tyres, pads and stone chips say more about how the car was driven and maintained than about how it was built.

Tyre tread depth not in accordance with the requirements
Advisory
30.0%class 22.9%
A tyre seriously damaged
Advisory
15.1%class 13.4%
A brake lining or pad worn below 1.5mm
Advisory
11.2%class 8.7%
Brake disc or drum excessively weakened, insecure or fractured
Advisory
6.6%class 10.1%
Tyre tread depth not in accordance with the requirements
Fail
3.0%class 2.3%
Child Seat fitted not allowing full inspection of adult belt
Advisory
2.9%class 2.2%
Brake disc or drum significantly and obviously worn
Advisory
2.7%class 3.4%
Nail in tyre
Advisory
2.4%class 1.6%

Others in its class

Same segment (Family hatchbacks), best MOT record first. Compare before you shortlist.

How it compares

Head to head with the other popular cars in its class on reliability and common faults.