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What to check: Chevrolet Spark

EBy miles

Ranked across all years of the Chevrolet Spark, from its own MOT record and from what owners report. Tick it off at the car.

From this model's MOT record

The physical checks its own defect data says are worth your time, most telling first.

Brake pipes underneathRuns high on this modelFollow the metal brake lines with a torch where they run along the sills and over the rear axle. White crust or flaking metal means they are corroding, and the online MOT history usually shows the same advisory creeping up for years before the fail.Recorded on 50.6% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 6.2%

Bushes and ball jointsRuns high on this modelDrive slowly over broken tarmac with the windows down and listen for clonks from either end. Back at the car, have someone rock the steering wheel while you rest a hand on each front wheel; play you can feel through the tyre is a worn joint.Recorded on 10.9% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 0.4%

Lights and horn walkroundRuns high on this modelWith a helper, run every light: dipped, main beam, indicators, brake lights including the high-level one, reverse, fog, and the horn. On newer cars a dead LED section can mean replacing the whole lamp unit rather than a bulb.Recorded on 10.7% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 3.5%

LeaksRuns high on this modelLook at the ground where the car usually stands, then glance under the engine after your test drive. Fresh drips of oil or coolant are the cheapest warning you will ever get about a car.Recorded on 9.2% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 4.8%

Underneath, with a torchRuns high on this modelGet down and look at the sills, the subframes and the rear suspension mounting points. Flaking scale and bubbling matter; light surface rust does not. On older cars this is the one check that finds the fault that scraps them.Recorded on 8.2% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 4.3%

Coil springsRuns high on this modelLook through the wheel spokes at the bottom coil of each spring; when springs snap it is usually there, and the break is visible. Step back and check the car sits level too. A dropped corner is often a broken spring.Recorded on 6.4% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 3.2%

A binding brakeRuns high on this modelAfter the test drive, hold the back of your hand near each wheel hub. One wheel running much hotter than the rest is a sticking caliper. A car that slows itself down when you lift off on a flat road is saying the same thing.Recorded on 6.4% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 1.4%

Worth doing on any used car

These judge the seller's upkeep rather than the model.

Tyres, all fourCheck the tread across the full width of each tyre, inner edge included, and look for cracking and mismatched brands. A set of decent tyres is £500 or more on most cars, which makes this the easiest money to take off a price. If the pressure warning light is on, budget for sensors too.Recorded on 23.9% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 20.9%

Pads and discsLook through the wheel spokes at the brake disc. A pronounced lip on its outer edge, or a rusty and scored face, means discs and pads are due all round, a few hundred pounds on most cars. A haggling point rather than a reason to walk away.Recorded on 7.4% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 11.4%

Windscreen and wipersRuns high on this modelScan the glass in daylight for chips, especially in the driver's line of sight where even a small one can fail the MOT. Run the washers and check the wipers clear without smearing.Recorded on 5.3% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 2.0%

Because of what owners report

Drawn from the owner reports rather than the MOT data. These are the model-specific ones.

Pump the clutch pedal by hand and check it feels solid, not loose or notchy at the pivot.Play or a spongy feel at the top of the pedal travel is the early sign of the pivot wearing before it snaps.

Open the bonnet and check the secondary catch under the main latch moves freely and isn't rusted solid.A catch that doesn't spring back means the corrosion recall issue hasn't been fixed.

Ask to see any recall paperwork or check the VIN against GM's recall records before buying.No record of the bonnet latch or clutch pedal recall work means those faults may still be live on the car.

With the car on level ground, release the handbrake and try to push the car, then check all four wheels turn freely.A wheel that won't turn, especially a rear one, points to a seized handbrake cable or drum, not just worn pads.

Run through every gear at a standstill and again on the move, including 2nd and 4th.Grinding, baulking, or reluctance to select a gear signals worn synchros, an expensive fix relative to the car's value.

Run the air con on max cold for at least ten minutes on the test drive.Warm air, cycling on and off, or a burning smell means a leak or compressor fault, not just needing a regas.

Check the MOT history for repeated brake advisories rather than just a pass.The same brake advisory two or three years running means the underlying corrosion or wear was never properly sorted.

Full Chevrolet Spark reliability report