Fault File
All models / All cars / Coupés, convertibles & GT / Nissan 350Z / 370Z

Nissan 350Z / 370Z

All generations and engines together · 2,384 MOT tests in the 2025 data · typical mileage at age 7: 33k

Reliability verdict

Not enough recent tests to rate this coupé or convertible. Watch suspension and brakes. Not enough recent MOT data to call this one yet.

Typical mileage at age 7
33k miles
How far the average car has gone by seven years old. Low-mileage models can look better by age than they are.

What owners report

Reported

Owner folklore from forums and the motoring press, with how well each report stands up. Most of it never shows up in an MOT, which is why this section exists at all.

Rear suspension bushes and clunking

Partly in the MOT data

Owners on both 350Z and 370Z forums describe it as one of the most common complaints on the car: rear lower control arm and differential bushes wearing out and giving a clunk or knock over bumps and on hard acceleration, usually from 60-80k miles as the factory rubber perishes. The measured MOT data backs this up, with suspension flagged as this car's signature fault area. Full bush replacement front and rear runs roughly £300-£700 depending on how much is done in one go.

Reported 60-80k miles · sources: 350z-uk.com, MY350Z.com, the370z.com forums

Electronic steering lock failure (370Z)

Confirmed pattern

Early 370Z steering lock units can develop excess oil inside the assembly, which trips the body control module and refuses to let the engine start. Nissan ran a voluntary service campaign (NTB13-014) on 2009-2010 cars covering 370Z and GT-R to replace the faulty unit. Outside that campaign a replacement has been quoted around £1,600, so it is worth checking the car isn't still owed this fix.

Mainly 2009-2010 cars · sources: Honest John, Nissan service campaign NTB13-014

Early 370Z oil consumption (VQ37VHR)

Confirmed pattern

Some early 3.7 VQ37VHR engines burn oil faster than they should, in bad cases around a litre every 1,000 miles when the car is otherwise fresh. It comes down to piston ring and bore tolerances rather than a leak, so there's no puddle to spot, just a dropping dipstick between services. Nissan acknowledged it and covered short-block replacement (new pistons and rings) under warranty in confirmed cases; out of warranty it's an engine-out job running into four figures.

Reported on early (2009-2012) cars · sources: the370z.com forum, engine reliability write-ups referencing the Nissan TSB

Early clutch wear (350Z)

Disputed

A run of early 350Z owners reported clutches wearing out unusually fast, as low as 9,000-25,000 miles, well short of what you'd expect. It's disputed territory because plenty of other owners get 60k-plus from a clutch, and driving style on a car built to be thrashed makes a big difference. Replacement is a few hundred to around £700 depending on whether it's a dual-mass flywheel car.

Reported 9-25k miles on early cars · sources: Honest John (owner club reports)

Concentric slave cylinder failure (manual only)

EmergingManual gearbox only

The clutch slave cylinder on manual cars sits inside the bellhousing rather than bolted to the outside, so when it starts leaking or losing pressure, giving a soft or inconsistent clutch pedal, the gearbox has to come out to replace it. That pushes what should be a simple part into a bigger labour bill, roughly £500-£900. Doesn't apply to automatic cars.

Reported at higher mileages · sources: owner problem write-ups, Z-car forum discussion (nicoclub.com)

VQ35DE rod bearing knock (tuned/high-mileage cars)

Emerging

A knocking noise that gets louder under load, pointing to worn rod bearings on the VQ35DE in the 350Z. It shows up mostly on cars that have been run hard or modified with more power, and on high-mileage examples with a patchy oil-change history, rather than being a blanket fault across the model. Not manufacturer-acknowledged as a design flaw, but repeated enough on owner forums to take seriously; a full rebuild or replacement engine can run to several thousand pounds.

Reported on modified/high-mileage cars · sources: VQ35DE engine write-ups, owner forum reports

What to check on this car

Ranked from this model’s own MOT record, then from what owners report.

Saveable checklist

From this model’s MOT record

The physical checks its own defect data says are worth your time, most telling first.

Brake pipes underneathRuns high on this model Follow the metal brake lines with a torch where they run along the sills and over the rear axle. White crust or flaking metal means they are corroding, and the online MOT history usually shows the same advisory creeping up for years before the fail.Recorded on 9.8% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 6.2%
Bushes and ball jointsRuns high on this model Drive slowly over broken tarmac with the windows down and listen for clonks from either end. Back at the car, have someone rock the steering wheel while you rest a hand on each front wheel; play you can feel through the tyre is a worn joint.Recorded on 8.5% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 1.8%
Underneath, with a torch Get down and look at the sills, the subframes and the rear suspension mounting points. Flaking scale and bubbling matter; light surface rust does not. On older cars this is the one check that finds the fault that scraps them.Recorded on 6.2% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 4.3%
ExhaustRuns high on this model Listen along the exhaust at cold idle for blowing or chuffing, and give the tailpipe a push to check nothing hangs loose. Small blows only get louder.Recorded on 4.0% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 2.2%
Headlamp lensesRuns high on this model Check for condensation inside the headlamps and for cloudy or yellowed lenses. Both attract MOT trouble, and moisture inside a sealed LED unit generally means a whole new lamp.Recorded on 2.9% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 0.9%
Cold start and smokeRuns high on this model Ask the seller not to warm the car up before you arrive, then watch the tailpipe at start-up and again under hard acceleration. Any visible smoke is a negotiation at best. A diesel that has lived on short trips may also be carrying a tired particulate filter.Recorded on 1.9% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 0.5%
LeaksRuns high on this model Look at the ground where the car usually stands, then glance under the engine after your test drive. Fresh drips of oil or coolant are the cheapest warning you will ever get about a car.Recorded on 1.5% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 0.1%

Worth doing on any used car

These judge the seller’s upkeep rather than the model, and they are where the haggling money is.

Tyres, all four Check the tread across the full width of each tyre, inner edge included, and look for cracking and mismatched brands. A set of decent tyres is £500 or more on most cars, which makes this the easiest money to take off a price. If the pressure warning light is on, budget for sensors too.Recorded on 21.3% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 20.9%
Pads and discs Look through the wheel spokes at the brake disc. A pronounced lip on its outer edge, or a rusty and scored face, means discs and pads are due all round, a few hundred pounds on most cars. A haggling point rather than a reason to walk away.Recorded on 10.4% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 11.4%
Windscreen and wipers Scan the glass in daylight for chips, especially in the driver's line of sight where even a small one can fail the MOT. Run the washers and check the wipers clear without smearing.Recorded on 1.7% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 2.6%

Because of what owners report

Drawn from the reports above rather than the MOT data. These are the model-specific ones.

Listen for a knock or clunk from the back of the car over speed bumps and on hard acceleration. Points to worn rear control arm or differential bushes, the car's most common suspension complaint.
On a manual, check the clutch pedal feels consistent and doesn't creep or feel spongy. A soft or inconsistent pedal can mean the concentric slave cylinder is on its way out, a gearbox-out job to fix.
Check the oil level and ask for recent oil-change receipts, especially on a 2009-2012 370Z. A car needing frequent top-ups between services may have the known early oil consumption issue.
Try to start the car cold after it's sat for a while, ideally more than once. Any failure to start with no obvious cause can point to the steering lock fault on early 370Z cars.
Ask when the clutch was last replaced and at what mileage, particularly on an early 350Z. A clutch already replaced well under 30k miles suggests the car may be prone to early wear.
Listen for a knock that gets louder under acceleration, especially on a modified car. Could be early rod bearing wear on the VQ35DE, an expensive engine-out repair if confirmed.
Check the MOT history for repeated suspension advisories rather than a one-off. Recurring suspension notes back up how common bush wear is on this model.

The MOT data

Measured

Computed from DVSA MOT results, all of Great Britain, 2025. Nothing here is opinion.

How this model wears

Nissan 350Z / 370ZClass average, all tracked models

What testers flag

Share of tests where each item was recorded. The dark tick is the class average across all tracked models; bars are scaled within each group.

Faults with the car itself

The rows that judge the model rather than its keeper. 1,607 tests in this band.

A suspension pin, bush or joint excessively worn
Advisory
11.6%class 11.2%
Brake pipe damaged or excessively corroded
Advisory
9.8%class 6.2%
A suspension component excessively damaged or corroded
Advisory
6.2%class 4.3%
Exhaust system leaking or insecure
Advisory
4.0%class 2.2%
Product on the lens or light source which obviously reduces light intensity or changes emitted colour to other than whit
Advisory
2.9%class 0.9%
Headlamp reflector or lens slightly defective
Minor
2.6%class 1.3%
Lambda coefficient outside the default limits or the range specified by the manufacturer
Fail
1.9%class 0.5%
A brake hose ferrule excessively corroded
Advisory
1.7%class 1.6%
A shock absorber damaged to the extent that it does not function or showing signs of severe leakage
Advisory
1.5%class 2.7%
Power steering fluid leaking or system malfunctioning
Advisory
1.5%class 0.1%

Wear, upkeep and luck

Tyres, pads and stone chips say more about how the car was driven and maintained than about how it was built.

Tyre tread depth not in accordance with the requirements
Advisory
23.0%class 23.4%
Brake disc or drum excessively weakened, insecure or fractured
Advisory
10.4%class 11.4%
A tyre seriously damaged
Advisory
8.9%class 11.3%
Tyre tread depth not in accordance with the requirements
Fail
2.2%class 2.6%
A brake lining or pad worn below 1.5mm
Advisory
2.0%class 7.3%
Brake disc or drum significantly and obviously worn
Advisory
1.9%class 2.8%
The aim of a headlamp is not within limits laid down in the requirements
Fail
1.9%class 1.4%
Nail in tyre
Advisory
1.9%class 1.4%

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