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Mercedes CLK

All generations and engines together · 1,107 MOT tests in the 2025 data

Reliability verdict

Not enough recent tests to rate this coupé or convertible. Watch brakes and suspension. Not enough recent MOT data to call this one yet.

Generation

Split by first-registration year. Cars registered in a changeover year can belong to either generation.

What owners report

Reported

Owner folklore from forums and the motoring press, with how well each report stands up. Most of it never shows up in an MOT, which is why this section exists at all.

Brittle automatic gearbox conductor plate

Confirmed pattern

The 722.6 five-speed auto (fitted across W208 and W209 CLKs) uses a plastic conductor plate inside the valve body that carries the shift solenoids' wiring. It goes brittle with age and heat, causing harsh or delayed shifts, getting stuck in one gear, or the box dropping into limp mode. It typically shows up from around 80,000-120,000 miles and a replacement plate plus dealer programming runs roughly £400-800.

Reported 80-120k miles · sources: MBWorld, Benzworld, PeachParts forum

Sensotronic (SBC) brake system fault

Partly in the MOT data

Early W209 CLKs (roughly 2003-2005) got Mercedes' electronic Sensotronic Brake Control instead of a conventional hydraulic setup. A worn ground connection or pump piston out of tolerance can make the system drop into a basic hydraulic back-up mode, giving a long, hard pedal and a warning light. Mercedes ran a recall and free fix in 2005 and later extended the pump warranty to 10 years unlimited mileage, but replacement pumps on unfixed or re-failed cars can run well over £1,000. The MOT signature for this model is brakes, and the SBC pump and its wiring are the specific part of that story that isn't a simple pad-and-disc job.

Recall 2005 · pump failures reported up to 10 years old · sources: NHTSA recall filings, MBUSA recall letter, The Brake Report

Front SAM fuse box water damage

Emerging

On both generations the main fuse box (or Front SAM on later W209 cars) sits in the cowl area under drains that clear rainwater away from the windscreen. When those drains clog with leaves, water floods the box and corrodes the bus bars and relay pins, causing random electrical faults: central locking, wipers, lights or the instrument cluster misbehaving. It can appear at any age once the drains are neglected, and a repair means clearing the drains plus a replacement module, coded to the car, from roughly £300 to over £1,000 depending on generation.

Age-related, not mileage-related · sources: Go-Parts technical guides, MBClub UK forum

Camshaft adjuster magnet rattle (M111/M112 engines)

Disputed

A metallic rattle from the top of the engine on acceleration and overrun, most often reported on the four-cylinder 230 Kompressor and the V6 320 cars. It is caused by the camshaft adjuster's control valve gumming up or its magnet wearing, and owners are split on whether it is worth fixing: some call it harmless and cosmetic, others replace the adjuster (£150-300 a side) to stop it getting worse. Not a fault Mercedes ever acknowledged with a recall.

Reported from 60k miles onward · sources: Benzworld, MBClub UK forum

Convertible roof hydraulics wearing out

EmergingCabriolet only

On the drop-top CLK the roof runs on a hydraulic pump with around ten fluid lines and several rams. Seals harden with age, typically from 10-12 years on, and a leak can leave the roof stuck half open or half closed, sometimes worse in cold weather. A single leaking pipe or ram is a manageable fix at £150-300, but tracking down which of the multiple lines has failed adds labour, and a full re-seal or pump replacement can run past £1,000.

Age-related, roughly 10-12 years+ · sources: MBWorld forum, Atlantic Motorcar Center case study

Supercharger seal wear on Kompressor engines

EmergingKompressor (230/200) only

The Eaton supercharger fitted to 230 and 200 Kompressor engines is rated for a long service life but owners report seals weeping oil and units smoking under hard acceleration once neglected past 100,000 miles without an oil change, despite Mercedes originally calling it sealed for life. A service or reseal costs a few hundred pounds; a full unit replacement is more. Smoky acceleration on a test drive on these engines specifically is a warning sign, not something to expect on the naturally aspirated cars.

From around 100k miles if oil never changed · sources: Honest John owner reviews, MBClub UK, Pelican Parts DIY guide

What to check on this car

Ranked from this model’s own MOT record, then from what owners report.

Saveable checklist

From this model’s MOT record

The physical checks its own defect data says are worth your time, most telling first.

Brake pipes underneathRuns high on this model Follow the metal brake lines with a torch where they run along the sills and over the rear axle. White crust or flaking metal means they are corroding, and the online MOT history usually shows the same advisory creeping up for years before the fail.Recorded on 35.7% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 6.2%
Coil springsRuns high on this model Look through the wheel spokes at the bottom coil of each spring; when springs snap it is usually there, and the break is visible. Step back and check the car sits level too. A dropped corner is often a broken spring.Recorded on 9.5% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 3.2%
Bushes and ball joints Drive slowly over broken tarmac with the windows down and listen for clonks from either end. Back at the car, have someone rock the steering wheel while you rest a hand on each front wheel; play you can feel through the tyre is a worn joint.Recorded on 12.9% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 9.0%
Wheel bearingsRuns high on this model On the test drive, listen for a drone that rises with road speed and shifts when you sway the car gently between lanes. That is a wheel bearing, and it only ever gets louder.Recorded on 7.0% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 0.6%
ExhaustRuns high on this model Listen along the exhaust at cold idle for blowing or chuffing, and give the tailpipe a push to check nothing hangs loose. Small blows only get louder.Recorded on 5.8% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 0.9%
Steering playRuns high on this model With the engine running and the car parked, waggle the wheel lightly about the straight-ahead. The wheels should respond almost at once. A dead zone before anything happens means wear in the rack or the track rod ends.Recorded on 5.3% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 1.7%
Headlamp lensesRuns high on this model Check for condensation inside the headlamps and for cloudy or yellowed lenses. Both attract MOT trouble, and moisture inside a sealed LED unit generally means a whole new lamp.Recorded on 4.1% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 1.1%

Worth doing on any used car

These judge the seller’s upkeep rather than the model, and they are where the haggling money is.

Tyres, all four Check the tread across the full width of each tyre, inner edge included, and look for cracking and mismatched brands. A set of decent tyres is £500 or more on most cars, which makes this the easiest money to take off a price. If the pressure warning light is on, budget for sensors too.Recorded on 23.4% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 20.9%
Pads and discs Look through the wheel spokes at the brake disc. A pronounced lip on its outer edge, or a rusty and scored face, means discs and pads are due all round, a few hundred pounds on most cars. A haggling point rather than a reason to walk away.Recorded on 16.6% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 11.4%

Because of what owners report

Drawn from the reports above rather than the MOT data. These are the model-specific ones.

Push the brake pedal hard with the engine off, then start it and check the pedal doesn't sink or feel unusually long and hard. A long, hard pedal or an SBC warning light on early W209s points to Sensotronic brake system problems.
Drive it and try several gearshifts, including a kickdown, watching for delay, flare or a sudden drop into one gear. Harsh, hesitant or stuck shifts suggest the conductor plate in the automatic gearbox is on its way out.
Test every electrical item: locking, wipers, windows, dash lights, in one go. Several unrelated electrical faults at once usually means water has got into the fuse box or SAM module.
Listen at idle and under light acceleration for a metallic rattle from the top of the engine. A rattle on 230 or 320 models is the camshaft adjuster magnet, usually cosmetic but worth a price chip.
On a convertible, cycle the roof up and down twice and check it completes smoothly with no fluid smell or leaks underneath. Hesitation, stalling partway or a puddle under the car points to failing roof hydraulics.
On a Kompressor car, floor it briefly and watch the mirrors for smoke. Visible smoke under hard acceleration suggests supercharger seals are worn.
Check the MOT history for repeated brake-related advisories or failures. Recurring brake advisories on this model line up with known Sensotronic and general brake system weak spots.

The MOT data

Measured

Computed from DVSA MOT results, all of Great Britain, 2025. Nothing here is opinion.

How this model wears

Mercedes CLKClass average, all tracked models

What testers flag

Share of tests where each item was recorded. The dark tick is the class average across all tracked models; bars are scaled within each group.

Faults with the car itself

The rows that judge the model rather than its keeper. 1,105 tests in this band.

Brake pipe damaged or excessively corroded
Advisory
35.7%class 6.2%
A suspension pin, bush or joint excessively worn
Advisory
29.7%class 12.3%
A suspension pin, bush or joint excessively worn
Fail
14.8%class 3.6%
Exhaust system leaking or insecure
Advisory
10.1%class 3.1%
A spring or spring component fractured or seriously weakened
Fail
9.5%class 3.2%
A wheel bearing with excessive play
Advisory
7.0%class 0.6%
A flexible brake hose excessively damaged, deteriorated, chafed, twisted or stretched
Advisory
5.8%class 0.2%
A spring or spring component fractured or seriously weakened
Advisory
5.6%class 5.0%
Play in steering rack inner joint(s)
Advisory
5.3%class 1.7%
Brake pipe damaged or excessively corroded
Fail
5.3%class 0.8%

Wear, upkeep and luck

Tyres, pads and stone chips say more about how the car was driven and maintained than about how it was built.

Tyre tread depth not in accordance with the requirements
Advisory
27.0%class 23.4%
Brake disc or drum excessively weakened, insecure or fractured
Advisory
16.6%class 11.4%
A tyre seriously damaged
Advisory
13.7%class 11.3%
A brake lining or pad worn below 1.5mm
Advisory
11.0%class 7.3%
Tyre tread depth not in accordance with the requirements
Fail
4.7%class 2.6%
Number plate inscription missing or illegible
Advisory
3.7%class 2.3%
Brake disc or drum significantly and obviously worn
Advisory
3.4%class 2.8%

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