Fault File
All models / All cars / Coupés, convertibles & GT / Mercedes CLC

Mercedes CLC

All generations and engines together · 4,584 MOT tests in the 2025 data · typical mileage at age 7: 51k

Reliability verdict

Not enough recent tests to rate this coupé or convertible. Watch brakes and suspension. Not enough recent MOT data to call this one yet.

Typical mileage at age 7
51k miles
How far the average car has gone by seven years old. Low-mileage models can look better by age than they are.

What owners report

Reported

Owner folklore from forums and the motoring press, with how well each report stands up. Most of it never shows up in an MOT, which is why this section exists at all.

Timing chain tensioner rattle (M271 petrol)

Confirmed pattern

On CLC 180 and 200 Kompressor petrol cars the M271 engine's balance-shaft chain tensioner wears and lets the timing chain rattle, worst on a cold start. Left alone it can let the chain jump and wreck the engine. Mercedes revised the tensioner and balance-shaft parts and ran a recall campaign covering the fault on M271 engines, with UK cars eligible for the same updated parts through a dealer. Expect roughly £600-1,500 for a proper tensioner and balance-shaft repair if caught early, considerably more if the chain has already jumped.

Reported from around 40-80k miles · sources: Honest John, MBClub UK forum, PistonHeads

722.6 automatic gearbox conductor plate failure

EmergingAutomatics only

Cars fitted with Mercedes' 5-speed 722.6 automatic can develop harsh or delayed shifts, a limp-home mode, or a gearbox warning light as the internal wiring loom (the conductor plate) inside the valve body degrades with age and heat. It's a well known weak point across this whole generation of Mercedes automatics, not unique to the CLC. Repair means dropping the pan and replacing the conductor plate and harness, typically £400-900 at an independent specialist rather than a full rebuild. Manual cars aren't affected.

Reported from 70k+ miles · sources: Honest John, MBClub UK forum

Wheel-arch and sill corrosion

Disputed

The CLC shares its bodyshell with the W203 C-Class, a car with a well earned reputation for rust, and owners still report bubbling around the rear wheel arches, sills and exhaust hangers on cars from this later, supposedly better-protected production run. Some owners insist the facelift-era cars are much improved and it's just stone chips and bad past repairs; others see the same rot once the car passes 10-15 years old. A proper arch or sill repair runs roughly £300-800 per side depending on how far the corrosion has spread.

Reported from 8-10 years old · sources: MBClub UK forum, PistonHeads

Diesel glow plug and swirl flap wear (220 CDI)

EmergingDiesel only

On the 220 CDI, worn glow plugs bring a hard, smoky cold start and a dashboard warning light, while the swirl flaps in the intake manifold can stick or snap off with age, causing rough idle, hesitation or a limp-home mode. Both are wear items on higher-mileage OM646-family diesels rather than manufacturer-acknowledged defects. Budget roughly £150-300 for a set of glow plugs and £300-600 for swirl flap repairs; ignoring a rattly or hesitant diesel risks debris getting drawn into the engine.

Reported from 80k+ miles · sources: Honest John, diesel-focused Mercedes owner forums

SAM module electrical gremlins

Emerging

The front and rear Signal Acquisition Modules (SAM units) that run the CLC's lighting, central locking, wipers and indicators are known to develop dry joints or water ingress with age, producing seemingly unrelated warning lights and electrical faults that come and go. It isn't officially acknowledged by Mercedes as a defect, but it comes up often enough across the wider W203/W204-era range to take seriously on a used CLC. Repair ranges from a re-soldered board at an auto-electrician for under £150 to £400-plus for a full replacement module.

Reported from 8+ years old · sources: MBClub UK forum, PistonHeads

Front brake wear and sticking calipers

Partly in the MOT data

Owners of the CLC, sold as a sportier-looking coupe, commonly report front discs and pads wearing faster than on the equivalent saloon, plus calipers and handbrake mechanisms that stick after the car sits unused for a few days, both fairly ordinary wear complaints rather than a hidden manufacturing fault. This lines up with the measured MOT data, where brakes are the standout failure category for this segment; the everyday explanation, a heavier car driven with enthusiasm plus short journeys letting calipers seize, fits that number better than any single design flaw.

Reported ongoing throughout ownership · sources: Honest John, MBClub UK forum, measured MOT data

What to check on this car

Ranked from this model’s own MOT record, then from what owners report.

Saveable checklist

From this model’s MOT record

The physical checks its own defect data says are worth your time, most telling first.

Brake pipes underneathRuns high on this model Follow the metal brake lines with a torch where they run along the sills and over the rear axle. White crust or flaking metal means they are corroding, and the online MOT history usually shows the same advisory creeping up for years before the fail.Recorded on 25.3% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 6.2%
Bushes and ball jointsRuns high on this model Drive slowly over broken tarmac with the windows down and listen for clonks from either end. Back at the car, have someone rock the steering wheel while you rest a hand on each front wheel; play you can feel through the tyre is a worn joint.Recorded on 14.2% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 9.0%
Wheel bearingsRuns high on this model On the test drive, listen for a drone that rises with road speed and shifts when you sway the car gently between lanes. That is a wheel bearing, and it only ever gets louder.Recorded on 9.5% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 0.6%
Coil springsRuns high on this model Look through the wheel spokes at the bottom coil of each spring; when springs snap it is usually there, and the break is visible. Step back and check the car sits level too. A dropped corner is often a broken spring.Recorded on 8.9% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 3.2%
Steering playRuns high on this model With the engine running and the car parked, waggle the wheel lightly about the straight-ahead. The wheels should respond almost at once. A dead zone before anything happens means wear in the rack or the track rod ends.Recorded on 6.1% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 1.7%
ExhaustRuns high on this model Listen along the exhaust at cold idle for blowing or chuffing, and give the tailpipe a push to check nothing hangs loose. Small blows only get louder.Recorded on 5.7% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 0.9%
Headlamp lensesRuns high on this model Check for condensation inside the headlamps and for cloudy or yellowed lenses. Both attract MOT trouble, and moisture inside a sealed LED unit generally means a whole new lamp.Recorded on 5.4% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 1.1%

Worth doing on any used car

These judge the seller’s upkeep rather than the model, and they are where the haggling money is.

Tyres, all four Check the tread across the full width of each tyre, inner edge included, and look for cracking and mismatched brands. A set of decent tyres is £500 or more on most cars, which makes this the easiest money to take off a price. If the pressure warning light is on, budget for sensors too.Recorded on 26.5% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 20.9%
Pads and discs Look through the wheel spokes at the brake disc. A pronounced lip on its outer edge, or a rusty and scored face, means discs and pads are due all round, a few hundred pounds on most cars. A haggling point rather than a reason to walk away.Recorded on 12.6% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 11.4%
Windscreen and wipers Scan the glass in daylight for chips, especially in the driver's line of sight where even a small one can fail the MOT. Run the washers and check the wipers clear without smearing.Recorded on 3.5% of tests at age 10-15 · class average 2.6%

Because of what owners report

Drawn from the reports above rather than the MOT data. These are the model-specific ones.

Start the engine from cold and listen for 30 seconds before revving it. A rattly, chainsaw-like noise from the front of the engine points to M271 timing chain tensioner wear.
On an automatic, drive it through every gear including a full-throttle kickdown. Hesitant, harsh or delayed shifts, or a gearbox warning light, suggest the 722.6 conductor plate is on its way out.
Get down and check the rear wheel arches, sills and exhaust hangers for bubbling paint or filler. Rust here is expensive to fix properly and can fail an MOT once it reaches structural areas.
On a diesel, watch the exhaust and listen to the idle on a cold start. Heavy smoke or a rough idle before it warms up points to tired glow plugs or a swirl flap problem.
Operate the indicators, wipers and central locking together and watch for random warning lights. Intermittent faults across unrelated electrical systems usually trace back to a failing SAM module.
Check the front discs for scoring or a lip, and brake hard from low speed. Pulling to one side, grinding or a spongy pedal points to worn discs, pads or a sticking caliper, the fault behind this model's MOT brake failures.
Read through the MOT history for repeated brake advisories. The same brake advisory coming back year after year confirms how often this shows up in the test data for this model.

The MOT data

Measured

Computed from DVSA MOT results, all of Great Britain, 2025. Nothing here is opinion.

How this model wears

Mercedes CLCClass average, all tracked models

What testers flag

Share of tests where each item was recorded. The dark tick is the class average across all tracked models; bars are scaled within each group.

Faults with the car itself

The rows that judge the model rather than its keeper. 4,578 tests in this band.

A suspension pin, bush or joint excessively worn
Advisory
28.6%class 11.7%
Brake pipe damaged or excessively corroded
Advisory
25.3%class 6.2%
A suspension pin, bush or joint excessively worn
Fail
16.5%class 3.6%
Exhaust system leaking or insecure
Advisory
10.3%class 3.1%
A wheel bearing with excessive play
Advisory
9.5%class 0.6%
A spring or spring component fractured or seriously weakened
Fail
8.9%class 3.2%
Play in steering rack inner joint(s)
Advisory
6.1%class 1.7%
Lamp emitted colour, position or intensity not in accordance with the requirements
Advisory
5.4%class 1.1%
A spring or spring component fractured or seriously weakened
Advisory
4.5%class 5.0%
A lamp missing, inoperative or in the case of a multiple light source more than 1/2 not functioning
Fail
4.3%class 3.5%

Wear, upkeep and luck

Tyres, pads and stone chips say more about how the car was driven and maintained than about how it was built.

Tyre tread depth not in accordance with the requirements
Advisory
30.5%class 23.4%
A tyre seriously damaged
Advisory
13.4%class 11.3%
Brake disc or drum excessively weakened, insecure or fractured
Advisory
12.6%class 11.4%
A brake lining or pad worn below 1.5mm
Advisory
8.0%class 7.3%
Tyre tread depth not in accordance with the requirements
Fail
5.1%class 2.6%
Brake disc or drum significantly and obviously worn
Advisory
3.9%class 2.8%
Windscreen or window damaged or seriously discoloured but not adversely affecting driver's view
Minor
3.5%class 2.6%
Windscreen washers not working or not providing sufficient fluid to clear the windscreen
Fail
3.5%class 1.2%

Others in its class

Same segment (Coupés, convertibles & GT), best MOT record first. Compare before you shortlist.