Fault File
All models / All cars / Coupés, convertibles & GT / Mazda MX-5

Mazda MX-5

All generations and engines together · 41,937 MOT tests in the 2025 data · typical mileage at age 7: 33k

Reliability verdict
BBy age
DBy miles

Graded against its peers

Better than most coupés and convertibles for its age, but worse than most per mile driven. Watch suspension and brakes. One to judge on its mileage rather than its age, and worth it only if its MOT history has no repeating suspension advisories.

First-time failure at age 7
10.9%
Across 4,166 tests. The average for coupés and convertibles is 14.8%.
First-time failure at 50-60k miles
20.7%
Across 4,473 tests. The average for coupés and convertibles is 17.9%.
Rank in its class
8 of 19
1 = lowest failure rate among the 19 coupés and convertibles we can rank.
Typical mileage at age 7
33k miles
How far the average car has gone by seven years old. Low-mileage models can look better by age than they are.

Generation

Split by first-registration year. Cars registered in a changeover year can belong to either generation.

What owners report

Reported

Owner folklore from forums and the motoring press, with how well each report stands up. Most of it never shows up in an MOT, which is why this section exists at all.

Rust in the sills, rear arches and subframe

Emerging

Early cars (NA and NB, roughly pre-2005) rot from the inside at the sills, rear wheel arches, front subframe mounting points and the door drain holes, areas hidden under plastic trim so the damage builds unseen. Owners on the MX-5 forums report holes appearing in these box sections once cars get into their late teens or twenties in age. A proper sill repair runs from around £500 up past £3,000 if the subframe mounts are involved, and there's no recall for it, it's just how the shell ages in UK winters.

Worst on NA/NB, still seen on early NC · sources: getcarwise, MX-5 Owners Club forum, AutoPartsPro

Timing belt neglect on the interference engine

DisputedBelt-driven NA/NB models only

NA and NB cars (up to around 2005) use a timing belt rather than a chain, and the 1.6/1.8 engines are interference designs, so a snapped belt bends valves and can write the engine off. Mazda's interval is 5 years or 60,000 miles, whichever comes first, but plenty of used examples turn up with no paperwork proving it's ever been changed. A belt and water pump job done properly is roughly £300-500; a wrecked engine from a snapped one is a different order of cost entirely.

Check service history, not just mileage · sources: getcarwise

Crank angle sensor and coil pack failures

Emerging

A well-known NB trait: the crank angle sensor overheats and cuts out, so the car simply dies and won't restart until it cools down, often mistaken for a flat battery or empty tank. Coil packs, especially on the 1.8, fail separately and cause misfires and rough running under load. Neither shows up at an MOT since the car can run fine cold on the day. Parts are cheap, roughly £100-300 for a sensor and £50-200 for a coil pack, but the intermittent nature makes them a pain to chase down.

Mostly NB, 1.8 worst for coil packs · sources: getcarwise

Soft-top wear and leaks

Emerging

The fabric roof wears through at the fold lines and the plastic rear screen goes cloudy and brittle with age and UV exposure, eventually letting water in. It's a wear item rather than a build fault, but it catches buyers out because a roof that looks fine folded down can be perished at the creases. A full roof replacement is commonly £300-800 depending on spec, more for a heated glass screen.

Age-related, worse past 10-15 years · sources: getcarwise, AutoPartsPro

Clutch judder and slave cylinder wear

Emerging

Two related complaints across the range: judder from a worn or contaminated clutch on earlier cars, and a clutch slave cylinder that fails and lets the pedal go soft or sink to the floor, mostly reported on NC (2005-2015) cars. Nothing has been recalled for either. Judder can sometimes be cured by cleaning up the flywheel and relining; a full clutch kit plus slave cylinder is commonly £200-500 in parts and labour.

NC most reported for slave cylinder · sources: getcarwise, AutoPartsPro

ND hood hinge water leak

EmergingND (Mk4) models only

A number of ND owners report water getting in around the driver-side hood hinge or bracket where the fabric folds down, sometimes on cars with well under 25,000 miles, showing up as a damp patch of carpet rather than an obvious drip. It hasn't been picked up as an official fault by Mazda and isn't something an MOT tester checks. The usual fix is a reseal or bracket adjustment, not a full roof replacement.

Reported from low mileage · sources: MX-5 Owners Club forum, MazdaForum

What to check on this car

Ranked from this model’s own MOT record, then from what owners report.

Saveable checklist

From this model’s MOT record

The physical checks its own defect data says are worth your time, most telling first.

Bushes and ball joints Drive slowly over broken tarmac with the windows down and listen for clonks from either end. Back at the car, have someone rock the steering wheel while you rest a hand on each front wheel; play you can feel through the tyre is a worn joint.Recorded on 7.3% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 5.9%
Brake pipes underneathRuns high on this model Follow the metal brake lines with a torch where they run along the sills and over the rear axle. White crust or flaking metal means they are corroding, and the online MOT history usually shows the same advisory creeping up for years before the fail.Recorded on 3.4% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 1.9%
A binding brakeRuns high on this model After the test drive, hold the back of your hand near each wheel hub. One wheel running much hotter than the rest is a sticking caliper. A car that slows itself down when you lift off on a flat road is saying the same thing.Recorded on 2.3% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.7%
WheelsRuns high on this model Look at each rim for kerb damage and check no wheel nuts are missing. A steering wheel that shimmies between 50 and 60 on the test drive often turns out to be a buckled or badly balanced wheel.Recorded on 1.5% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.6%
Lights and horn walkround With a helper, run every light: dipped, main beam, indicators, brake lights including the high-level one, reverse, fog, and the horn. On newer cars a dead LED section can mean replacing the whole lamp unit rather than a bulb.Recorded on 1.7% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 1.2%
Underneath, with a torch Get down and look at the sills, the subframes and the rear suspension mounting points. Flaking scale and bubbling matter; light surface rust does not. On older cars this is the one check that finds the fault that scraps them.Recorded on 0.8% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.6%

Worth doing on any used car

These judge the seller’s upkeep rather than the model, and they are where the haggling money is.

Tyres, all fourRuns high on this model Check the tread across the full width of each tyre, inner edge included, and look for cracking and mismatched brands. A set of decent tyres is £500 or more on most cars, which makes this the easiest money to take off a price. If the pressure warning light is on, budget for sensors too.Recorded on 17.3% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 11.1%
Pads and discsRuns high on this model Look through the wheel spokes at the brake disc. A pronounced lip on its outer edge, or a rusty and scored face, means discs and pads are due all round, a few hundred pounds on most cars. A haggling point rather than a reason to walk away.Recorded on 17.0% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 10.1%
Windscreen and wipers Scan the glass in daylight for chips, especially in the driver's line of sight where even a small one can fail the MOT. Run the washers and check the wipers clear without smearing.Recorded on 2.0% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 1.7%

Because of what owners report

Drawn from the reports above rather than the MOT data. These are the model-specific ones.

Check inside the rear wheel arches, sills and around the front subframe mounts for filler or fresh underseal. Bubbling paint or crusty patches under the trim means the sills are already rotting.
Ask for proof of a timing belt and water pump change on any NA or NB, with a date, not just a mileage figure. No paperwork, or a belt older than 5 years/60,000 miles, is a real risk of a snapped belt wrecking the engine.
On an NB, let it idle for a while then try a restart once it's fully warm. A car that dies and won't restart until it cools is the classic crank sensor fault.
Rev the engine under some load and listen to how evenly it pulls. Missing or stumbling, especially on a 1.8, points at a failing coil pack.
Drop the roof and look closely at the fabric fold lines and the rear screen. Cracking fabric or a cloudy, brittle plastic screen means a roof replacement is coming.
Pull away from a stop and pay attention to how the clutch pedal feels. Judder, or a pedal that feels spongy or sinks towards the floor, is clutch or slave cylinder wear.
On an ND, check the carpet near the driver-side hood hinge after rain or a hose test. Damp carpet there is the known hinge leak point, and it's not something an MOT catches.

The MOT data

Measured

Computed from DVSA MOT results, all of Great Britain, 2025. Nothing here is opinion.

How this model wears

Mazda MX-5Class average, all tracked models

What testers flag

Share of tests where each item was recorded. The dark tick is the class average across all tracked models; bars are scaled within each group.

Faults with the car itself

The rows that judge the model rather than its keeper. 16,214 tests in this band.

A suspension pin, bush or joint excessively worn
Advisory
11.3%class 6.0%
Brake pipe damaged or excessively corroded
Advisory
3.4%class 1.9%
Significant brake effort recorded with no brake applied indicating a binding brake
Advisory
3.0%class 0.9%
A wheel badly distorted or wear between wheel and hub at spigot mounting
Advisory
1.5%class 0.6%
Significant brake effort recorded with no brake applied indicating a binding brake
Fail
1.3%class 0.2%
A suspension pin, bush or joint excessively worn
Fail
0.9%class 0.9%
Excessive fluctuation in brake effort through each wheel revolution.
Advisory
0.9%class 0.6%
A suspension component excessively damaged or corroded
Advisory
0.8%class 0.6%

Wear, upkeep and luck

Tyres, pads and stone chips say more about how the car was driven and maintained than about how it was built.

A tyre seriously damaged
Advisory
19.3%class 12.7%
Brake disc or drum excessively weakened, insecure or fractured
Advisory
17.0%class 10.1%
Tyre tread depth not in accordance with the requirements
Advisory
13.6%class 22.9%
A brake lining or pad worn below 1.5mm
Advisory
10.4%class 8.7%
A brake lining or pad worn below 1.5mm
Fail
2.0%class 1.6%
Wiper blade missing or obviously not clearing the windscreen
Fail
2.0%class 1.7%
Windscreen or window damaged or seriously discoloured but not adversely affecting driver's view
Minor
1.9%class 2.0%
A rear registration plate lamp or light source missing or inoperative in the case of multiple lamps or light sources
Minor
1.7%class 1.2%

Others in its class

Same segment (Coupés, convertibles & GT), best MOT record first. Compare before you shortlist.

How it compares

Head to head with the other popular cars in its class on reliability and common faults.