Fault File
All models / All cars / Superminis / Hyundai i20

Hyundai i20

All generations and engines together · 123,535 MOT tests in the 2025 data · typical mileage at age 7: 50k

First-time failure at age 7
17.9%
Across 10,014 tests. The average across all tracked models is 19.5%.
Rank at age 7
109 of 239
1 = lowest failure rate among the models tracked.
Typical mileage at age 7
50k miles
Check the mileage view below; low-mileage models can look better by age than they are.

Generation

Split by first-registration year. Cars registered in a changeover year can belong to either generation.

How this model wears

Hyundai i20Class average, all tracked models

Known issues

Measured

Computed from DVSA MOT results, all of Great Britain, 2025. Nothing here is opinion.

What testers flag

Share of tests where each item was recorded. The dark tick is the class average across all tracked models; bars are scaled within each group.

Faults with the car itself

The rows that judge the model rather than its keeper. 42,986 tests in this band.

A suspension pin, bush or joint excessively worn
Advisory
2.5%class 5.9%
A suspension joint dust cover severely deteriorated
Minor
1.7%class 0.6%
A suspension joint dust cover missing or no longer prevents the ingress of dirt etc
Fail
1.6%class 0.3%
Stop lamp missing, inoperative or in the case of a multiple light source more than 1/2 not functioning
Fail
1.5%class 0.8%
Significant brake effort recorded with no brake applied indicating a binding brake
Advisory
1.4%class 0.7%
Parking brake efficiency below minimum requirement
Fail
1.1%class 0.3%
Play in steering rack inner joint(s)
Advisory
1.0%class 1.1%
Fluid leaking excessively and likely to harm the environment or to pose a safety risk to other road users
Advisory
1.0%class 2.0%

Wear, upkeep and luck

Tyres, pads and stone chips say more about how the car was driven and maintained than about how it was built.

A tyre seriously damaged
Advisory
21.5%class 12.7%
Tyre tread depth not in accordance with the requirements
Advisory
21.0%class 22.9%
Brake disc or drum excessively weakened, insecure or fractured
Advisory
12.2%class 10.1%
A brake lining or pad worn below 1.5mm
Advisory
11.6%class 8.7%
Brake disc or drum significantly and obviously worn
Advisory
4.0%class 3.4%
Windscreen washers not working or not providing sufficient fluid to clear the windscreen
Fail
2.8%class 1.2%
Wiper blade missing or obviously not clearing the windscreen
Fail
2.5%class 1.7%
Child Seat fitted not allowing full inspection of adult belt
Advisory
2.4%class 2.2%

Unconfirmed issues

Reported

Owner folklore from forums and the motoring press. Most of it never shows up in an MOT, which is why this section exists at all.

Clutch judder from cold or in slow traffic

Emerging

A shudder or shake through the car when pulling away, worst on a cold engine or after sitting in traffic, is the single most repeated complaint about manual i20s across generations. It shows up anywhere from a few thousand miles on a near-new car to well past 60,000 miles, and dealers often send owners away saying it's 'normal wear'. A clutch kit replacement runs roughly £400-700 independently, more at a main dealer.

Reported from under 5,000 to 90,000+ miles · sources: Honest John forum, Reddit r/Hyundai, DIYnot, MoneySavingExpert forum

1.0 T-GDi timing chain rattle and cam chain wear

1.0 T-GDi petrol only

Cars with the small three-cylinder 1.0-litre turbo petrol can develop a rattle or chatter on cold start as the timing chain and its tensioner wear, typically from around 40,000-60,000 miles. In the worst reported cases the chain has caught the cam cover and taken the engine with it, and one dealer was quoted as recognising it immediately as 'a known issue' once the engine code came up. This engine is shared across several Hyundai and Kia models, so reports outside the i20 itself back up the pattern. A full repair or engine rebuild can run into four figures.

Reported 18,000-60,000 miles · sources: Honest John forum, Hyundai Forums, Autodoc

Diesel DPF and EGR clogging

Diesel only

On the 1.1 and 1.4 CRDi diesel, short runs and town driving let the DPF clog and the EGR gum up with soot, bringing on warning lights, a flat spot under acceleration and sometimes visible smoke. The P1405 EGR-related fault code comes up often enough in diagnostic forums that it's treated as a known weak point on the DCM3.7 ECU used on these engines. Regeneration drives or an EGR clean can sort early cases; a full DPF replacement is closer to £700-1,500 if it's gone too far.

Reported from around 75,000 km · sources: Autodoc, MyCarly community, CarChecker, electronicrepairegypt diagnostic forum

Discs warping and scoring faster than they should

Partly in the MOT data

Owners on the Hyundai forums report discs warping within a few thousand miles of fitting, sometimes twice over, with a pedal that pulses or a car that pulls under braking. This tallies with the site's own measured MOT figures, where brakes are the standout fault for this class of car generally, and separate warranty-claim data puts the braking system as the single biggest source of claims on the i20. Pads and discs are cheap parts, £150-300 for a full front set fitted, but if you're doing it every year or two something's off.

Reported from 6,000 miles on replacement discs · sources: Hyundai Forums, MotorEasy warranty claims data

Infotainment screen freezing or losing Bluetooth

Emerging

The touchscreen can freeze on the Hyundai logo at startup, black out, or drop Bluetooth and CarPlay for several seconds before reconnecting. It's a nuisance rather than a safety issue and a battery disconnect or dealer reset usually clears it for a while, but it tends to come back. Not officially acknowledged as a fault, and a full head unit swap if it fails outright can run several hundred pounds.

Reported across model years · sources: Hyundai Forums, Reddit r/Hyundai

Automatic gearbox hesitant or jerky pulling away

Automatics only

On automatic i20s, owners report a jerky or delayed take-up moving off in first gear and harsher-than-expected shifts into second, more common from around 60,000-80,000 miles. A fluid change can settle it in mild cases; in worse ones it points to a tired torque converter or valve body, which is a four-figure job at a specialist. Doesn't apply to manual cars.

Reported 60,000-80,000 miles · sources: Hyundai Forums, Autodoc

Viewing one? Ask this

Built from the two sections above.

Start it stone cold and dip the clutch pulling away gently. A shudder or shake through the car is the common clutch judder fault, not just a 'notchy' pedal.
Listen hard for 2-3 seconds right after a cold start, especially on a 1.0-litre turbo petrol. A rattle or chatter that fades as revs rise points to timing chain wear.
On a diesel, check the dash for a DPF or EGR warning light and ask when it last did a motorway run. A car that's only done short trips is more likely to have a clogged filter brewing.
Pull the full MOT history, not just the pass/fail. Repeat brake advisories year after year suggest discs are being replaced with the same cheap parts, not the underlying issue.
Brake hard from moderate speed on a quiet road. A pulsing pedal or the car pulling to one side means warped or scored discs.
Pair your phone and leave the infotainment running for ten minutes. A freeze, black screen, or Bluetooth drop-out on a test drive will likely recur.
On an automatic, pull away from a dead stop and feel the 1st-to-2nd shift. A hesitation or jerk here is the pattern reported from around 60,000 miles onward.

Others in its class

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