Fault File
All models / All cars / Superminis / Hyundai i20

Hyundai i20

All generations and engines together · 123,535 MOT tests in the 2025 data · typical mileage at age 7: 50k

Reliability verdict
BBy age
BBy miles

Graded against its peers

Better than most superminis, by age and by mileage. Watch brakes and lights & electrics. A solid used buy, provided its MOT history has no repeating brakes advisories.

First-time failure at age 7
17.9%
Across 10,014 tests. The average for superminis is 23.3%.
First-time failure at 50-60k miles
26.4%
Across 15,289 tests. The average for superminis is 28.9%.
Rank in its class
6 of 27
1 = lowest failure rate among the 27 superminis we can rank.
Typical mileage at age 7
50k miles
How far the average car has gone by seven years old. Low-mileage models can look better by age than they are.

Generation

Split by first-registration year. Cars registered in a changeover year can belong to either generation.

What owners report

Reported

Owner folklore from forums and the motoring press, with how well each report stands up. Most of it never shows up in an MOT, which is why this section exists at all.

Clutch judder from cold or in slow traffic

Emerging

A shudder or shake through the car when pulling away, worst on a cold engine or after sitting in traffic, is the single most repeated complaint about manual i20s across generations. It shows up anywhere from a few thousand miles on a near-new car to well past 60,000 miles, and dealers often send owners away saying it's 'normal wear'. A clutch kit replacement runs roughly £400-700 independently, more at a main dealer.

Reported from under 5,000 to 90,000+ miles · sources: Honest John forum, Reddit r/Hyundai, DIYnot, MoneySavingExpert forum

1.0 T-GDi timing chain rattle and cam chain wear

Emerging1.0 T-GDi petrol only

Cars with the small three-cylinder 1.0-litre turbo petrol can develop a rattle or chatter on cold start as the timing chain and its tensioner wear, typically from around 40,000-60,000 miles. In the worst reported cases the chain has caught the cam cover and taken the engine with it, and one dealer was quoted as recognising it immediately as 'a known issue' once the engine code came up. This engine is shared across several Hyundai and Kia models, so reports outside the i20 itself back up the pattern. A full repair or engine rebuild can run into four figures.

Reported 18,000-60,000 miles · sources: Honest John forum, Hyundai Forums, Autodoc

Diesel DPF and EGR clogging

EmergingDiesel only

On the 1.1 and 1.4 CRDi diesel, short runs and town driving let the DPF clog and the EGR gum up with soot, bringing on warning lights, a flat spot under acceleration and sometimes visible smoke. The P1405 EGR-related fault code comes up often enough in diagnostic forums that it's treated as a known weak point on the DCM3.7 ECU used on these engines. Regeneration drives or an EGR clean can sort early cases; a full DPF replacement is closer to £700-1,500 if it's gone too far.

Reported from around 75,000 km · sources: Autodoc, MyCarly community, CarChecker, electronicrepairegypt diagnostic forum

Discs warping and scoring faster than they should

Partly in the MOT data

Owners on the Hyundai forums report discs warping within a few thousand miles of fitting, sometimes twice over, with a pedal that pulses or a car that pulls under braking. This tallies with the site's own measured MOT figures, where brakes are the standout fault for this class of car generally, and separate warranty-claim data puts the braking system as the single biggest source of claims on the i20. Pads and discs are cheap parts, £150-300 for a full front set fitted, but if you're doing it every year or two something's off.

Reported from 6,000 miles on replacement discs · sources: Hyundai Forums, MotorEasy warranty claims data

Infotainment screen freezing or losing Bluetooth

Emerging

The touchscreen can freeze on the Hyundai logo at startup, black out, or drop Bluetooth and CarPlay for several seconds before reconnecting. It's a nuisance rather than a safety issue and a battery disconnect or dealer reset usually clears it for a while, but it tends to come back. Not officially acknowledged as a fault, and a full head unit swap if it fails outright can run several hundred pounds.

Reported across model years · sources: Hyundai Forums, Reddit r/Hyundai

Automatic gearbox hesitant or jerky pulling away

EmergingAutomatics only

On automatic i20s, owners report a jerky or delayed take-up moving off in first gear and harsher-than-expected shifts into second, more common from around 60,000-80,000 miles. A fluid change can settle it in mild cases; in worse ones it points to a tired torque converter or valve body, which is a four-figure job at a specialist. Doesn't apply to manual cars.

Reported 60,000-80,000 miles · sources: Hyundai Forums, Autodoc

What to check on this car

Ranked from this model’s own MOT record, then from what owners report.

Saveable checklist

From this model’s MOT record

The physical checks its own defect data says are worth your time, most telling first.

Rubber boots and gaitersRuns high on this model On full steering lock, look in behind each front wheel at the concertina rubber boots on the driveshafts and steering rack. Splits, or grease flung around the arch, mean dirt is getting into a joint that costs far more than the boot protecting it.Recorded on 1.7% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.6%
Bushes and ball joints Drive slowly over broken tarmac with the windows down and listen for clonks from either end. Back at the car, have someone rock the steering wheel while you rest a hand on each front wheel; play you can feel through the tyre is a worn joint.Recorded on 2.5% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 5.9%
Lights and horn walkroundRuns high on this model With a helper, run every light: dipped, main beam, indicators, brake lights including the high-level one, reverse, fog, and the horn. On newer cars a dead LED section can mean replacing the whole lamp unit rather than a bulb.Recorded on 1.5% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.8%
A binding brakeRuns high on this model After the test drive, hold the back of your hand near each wheel hub. One wheel running much hotter than the rest is a sticking caliper. A car that slows itself down when you lift off on a flat road is saying the same thing.Recorded on 1.4% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.7%
Handbrake holdRuns high on this model Stop on a hill and put the handbrake on. It should hold the car firmly within a few clicks, or straight away on the button if it is electronic. Roll-back means adjustment at best, new cables or a caliper motor at worst.Recorded on 1.1% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 0.3%
Steering play With the engine running and the car parked, waggle the wheel lightly about the straight-ahead. The wheels should respond almost at once. A dead zone before anything happens means wear in the rack or the track rod ends.Recorded on 1.0% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 1.1%
Leaks Look at the ground where the car usually stands, then glance under the engine after your test drive. Fresh drips of oil or coolant are the cheapest warning you will ever get about a car.Recorded on 1.0% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 2.0%

Worth doing on any used car

These judge the seller’s upkeep rather than the model, and they are where the haggling money is.

Tyres, all fourRuns high on this model Check the tread across the full width of each tyre, inner edge included, and look for cracking and mismatched brands. A set of decent tyres is £500 or more on most cars, which makes this the easiest money to take off a price. If the pressure warning light is on, budget for sensors too.Recorded on 20.2% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 11.1%
Pads and discs Look through the wheel spokes at the brake disc. A pronounced lip on its outer edge, or a rusty and scored face, means discs and pads are due all round, a few hundred pounds on most cars. A haggling point rather than a reason to walk away.Recorded on 12.2% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 10.1%
Windscreen and wipers Scan the glass in daylight for chips, especially in the driver's line of sight where even a small one can fail the MOT. Run the washers and check the wipers clear without smearing.Recorded on 2.5% of tests at age 6-9 · class average 1.7%

Because of what owners report

Drawn from the reports above rather than the MOT data. These are the model-specific ones.

Start it stone cold and dip the clutch pulling away gently. A shudder or shake through the car is the common clutch judder fault, not just a 'notchy' pedal.
Listen hard for 2-3 seconds right after a cold start, especially on a 1.0-litre turbo petrol. A rattle or chatter that fades as revs rise points to timing chain wear.
On a diesel, check the dash for a DPF or EGR warning light and ask when it last did a motorway run. A car that's only done short trips is more likely to have a clogged filter brewing.
Pull the full MOT history, not just the pass/fail. Repeat brake advisories year after year suggest discs are being replaced with the same cheap parts, not the underlying issue.
Brake hard from moderate speed on a quiet road. A pulsing pedal or the car pulling to one side means warped or scored discs.
Pair your phone and leave the infotainment running for ten minutes. A freeze, black screen, or Bluetooth drop-out on a test drive will likely recur.
On an automatic, pull away from a dead stop and feel the 1st-to-2nd shift. A hesitation or jerk here is the pattern reported from around 60,000 miles onward.

The MOT data

Measured

Computed from DVSA MOT results, all of Great Britain, 2025. Nothing here is opinion.

How this model wears

Hyundai i20Class average, all tracked models

What testers flag

Share of tests where each item was recorded. The dark tick is the class average across all tracked models; bars are scaled within each group.

Faults with the car itself

The rows that judge the model rather than its keeper. 42,986 tests in this band.

A suspension pin, bush or joint excessively worn
Advisory
2.5%class 5.9%
A suspension joint dust cover severely deteriorated
Minor
1.7%class 0.6%
A suspension joint dust cover missing or no longer prevents the ingress of dirt etc
Fail
1.6%class 0.3%
Stop lamp missing, inoperative or in the case of a multiple light source more than 1/2 not functioning
Fail
1.5%class 0.8%
Significant brake effort recorded with no brake applied indicating a binding brake
Advisory
1.4%class 0.7%
Parking brake efficiency below minimum requirement
Fail
1.1%class 0.3%
Play in steering rack inner joint(s)
Advisory
1.0%class 1.1%
Fluid leaking excessively and likely to harm the environment or to pose a safety risk to other road users
Advisory
1.0%class 2.0%

Wear, upkeep and luck

Tyres, pads and stone chips say more about how the car was driven and maintained than about how it was built.

A tyre seriously damaged
Advisory
21.5%class 12.7%
Tyre tread depth not in accordance with the requirements
Advisory
21.0%class 22.9%
Brake disc or drum excessively weakened, insecure or fractured
Advisory
12.2%class 10.1%
A brake lining or pad worn below 1.5mm
Advisory
11.6%class 8.7%
Brake disc or drum significantly and obviously worn
Advisory
4.0%class 3.4%
Windscreen washers not working or not providing sufficient fluid to clear the windscreen
Fail
2.8%class 1.2%
Wiper blade missing or obviously not clearing the windscreen
Fail
2.5%class 1.7%
Child Seat fitted not allowing full inspection of adult belt
Advisory
2.4%class 2.2%

Others in its class

Same segment (Superminis), best MOT record first. Compare before you shortlist.